The Yachting Year 2018

(Kiana) #1

130 | THE YACHTING YEAR 2018


B


oat racing is the national sport on the tiny
Caribbean island of Anguilla. Born from
competition between engineless cargo schooners
beating home from the Dominican Republic, today it is a
serious sport raced in open sloops. Boatbuilders are held
in high regard, their skills oen handed father to son, and
rock star status is guaranteed for the fastest of the eet.
Our little ga ketch was anchored in Anguilla’s Road Bay
when I noticed two trailered race boats appear on the
beach, 28 in length, painted like a fresh box of crayons.
First one was dipped in the water, then the other. We were
months ahead of Easter, when racing begins in earnest,
and long past August Monday, when the entire island
turns out in force. Why they were there was a mystery. e
following day, curiosity hauled me ashore to watch crew
hustling gear and ballast aboard. More came to raise the
50 masts, set up rigs and bend on sweeping mains that
downwind give the appearance of butteries in ight. “Is
there going to be a race?” I asked with expectation.
One of the riggers replied: “No. No race. We takin’ a fella
on he’lass sail.”
An anniversary or retirement? Spreading ashes? But the
story I learned was far more. e sailor was Albert
Hughes, known locally as Belto. His father owned Light
and Peace and Belto sailed her over 50 years, oen as
captain. He had a hand in building, maintaining and
nancing this favourite of the eet. e second boat, De
Wizard, was also a Hughes family vessel, built through the
eorts of Belto.
Belto passed away aged 82. He would be honoured by
the country at a national funeral for his service as an
Elected Representative, Minister and Parliamentary
Secretary, having served his West End community and
country for 27 years. His nephew, Earl Hughes, knew Belto
longed for one more sail.

MAIN PHOTO: the
boats are readied
TOP RIGHT: The
con is carried to
the quay

BY JAN HEIN


TAKING HIS FINAL SAIL


Time had slipped away, along with his uncle’s life, but
there was still a chance to make it happen. e following
aernoon, a crowd gathered near the pier. A hearse backed
onto the beach and crew, wearing Light and Peace shirts,
came forward as pallbearers. e door opened, revealing a
boat-shaped con, painted to replicate Beltos’ beloved
vessel. e casket was carried down the pier, stern rst by
tradition, and placed aboard a motorboat that would
escort the yachts.
Pallbearers then hustled down the beach to the waiting
boats, which were lling fast. Kids and women were
carried out, beers were opened and before long everyone
was aboard, the jibs were busted loose and they were o –
West End bound.
e crowd onshore toasted Belto. Laughter erupted
along with sailing stories. Tears lled eyes watching the
three vessels shrink in size. I knew nothing about this
man, yet I knew without a doubt how much he was loved,
that Anguilla was his heart and sailing was in his blood.
Aer the boats returned and the casket was placed in the
hearse, I saw boatbuilder Devon ‘Beggar’ Daniels. “You got
to come to my yard,” he said. “See what I make. It de boat
dat go on top.”
Beggar collected us the next day, hours before the
funeral, and as we entered his boatyard, there sat a 7
miniature replica of Light and Peace. It had taken a week to
build, setting up the frames, laying up tiny planks, nished
in minute detail including paint, graphics and numbered
ballast stones glued in the bottom.
“It go on top de grave,” Beggar explained. “Like a wreath.”
Never before had a wreath looked like a boat, nor had
any sailor been given such an extraordinary tribute. It was,
to my eyes, the nest salute to a man of the sea. One of
hundreds of condolences said it best: “RIP Mr Hughes.
You have nished the race.”

TYY4 Sternpost.indd 130 04/12/2017 17:39

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