the crossing but the mackerel had been
elusive so far. Then, as we passed through
a fleet of fishing boats, we had our first
bite on the trolling line. We were using
hand lines, as rods were too cumbersome
on the back of our small boat, so it was a
long, slow process to wind in the line with
what was obviously a big fish.
Suddenly the line went slack, and we
retrieved the line but no lure. Undeterred
we put out the other line. It happened
again but this time snapping and losing
20m of line. This was now personal.
Armed with 85lb line we dropped the lure
overboard and within 30 seconds we had
another fish on the hook. To speed up the
recovery we wrapped the line around the
two winches. Again it was a big fish and
before long it too was off, bending the
hook almost straight.
Getting the hang of fishing
Out again went the lure and straight to a
fish. This time we slowed the engine,
allowing us to get the fish to stern. It was
too big to get into the net and our fumbling
in the locker to get the gaff gave it the
chance to jump to freedom. But the next
one was not to get away. We now knew
how to handle these fighting fish and we
were overjoyed at landing our first tuna. It
provided enough meat for five meals as
well as our first taste of sea-fresh sushi
We were now approaching the Spanish
coast changing course heading west
towards La Coruña. As we sailed parallel
with the coast we headed into some rising
seas and a current that constantly
changed direction. Motor-sailing and
under full sail we could only manage 2.5
knots over ground and with fuel getting
low we didn’t know if we had enough to
get to our destination. I decided to change
course and head for Gijon. This was still
some distance away but would be an
easier sail with the tide in our favour. We
arrived in the port at 0245 on a dark but
warm morning to the smell of coal dust
and tar, but we had at least crossed
Biscay and survived to tell the tale.
After a few days’ rest we headed along
the coast to Ribadeo. With the wind behind
us we flew along, hitting 7 knots as we
surfed down the waves. We were making
such good progress I decided to carry on
to La Coruña, sailing through the night
and arriving as day broke. We entered the
marina, pleased we were now where we’d
intended to be, ready to take on the
Atlantic coast of Spain and on to Portugal.
Heading down the Spanish coast
towards Portugal our next test was CaboFinisterre. As we approached, the wind
picked up to over 20 knots. I tried to reef
while sailing downwind, but the sail was
still powered up and would not furl. We
had no choice but to turn into the wind –
I didn’t want to be caught with full sail as
we rounded Finisterre. Heading up we
began to feel the full effects of the wind as
we hit the waves head on.Rounding Cape Finisterre
The main was being shaken from side to
side as though it was in the jaws of a rabid
dog. I’d already replaced one sail slide
which had snapped due to flogging but
this was much worse. One more slide
snapped just below the spreaders.
The additional momentum allowed the
sail to snatch from side to side which made
the slider above snap, then another below
and another. Before long the sail and track
was bellowing out to the side full of wind
as I winched it in. The displacement
caused the sail to furl too far forward and
as I rolled, the battens caught on the front
edge of the boom. This in turn ripped the
end out of the batten pocket eventually
jamming the sail with still 3m to go.
It was impossible to rectify the situation
in such winds, so we had no alternative
but to continue under headsail de-
powering the main as we rounded the
Cabo into what we hoped would be
calmer waters.
We’d been shaken by the experience
and the winds continued to blow 20-25
knots but at least the beautiful turquoise
waters were flat as we headed to the far
corner of the bay in search of shelter. We
anchored in beautiful blue waters on sandCRUISING
With the wind behind
us we flew along,
hitting 7 knots
Enjoying the warmer weather while
heading for Loctudy
LEFT Tuna caught in Biscay