tend to mix one from red and blue, but
a tubed violet made from a single pig-
ment, rich and clean, can be an asset.
Before I get into that, however, let’s
look at what we can do with violets.
One of my favorite color schemes
is based on a triad of secondary colors:
green, orange and violet. Th ese are
colors often found in the landscape.
Th ey appear in vegetation, from warm
oranges in sunny spots to cooler
greens in half-tones to coolest violets
in shadows. I can also make warm,
earthy greens with violets by add-
ing yellow. (See Landscape in Green,
Orange and Violet, pages 22–23.)
I can make violets warmer or
cooler depending on what colors I
mix into them. I may mix in a little
alizarin crimson to warm up a violet or
mix in cobalt blue to cool it down. I’ve
learned I can make an incredibly dark,
transparent neutral that approaches
black with dioxazine purple and
phthalocyanine green. I use this for my
darkest dark in rocks and vegetation.
Beautiful grays are another pos-
sibility with violets. Many tubed
violets are so dark you can’t tell their
true color without adding white,
which also cools and “grays” them. By
adding tiny amounts of other colors,
you can shift these muted violets to a
whole spectrum of grays.
MIXED OR TUBED VIOLETS?
Chances are you mix your violets
from red and blue—but which red
and which blue? In my split-primary
palette, for example, I have a warm
and a cool version of red and blue (and
yellow). With cadmium red light (a
warm red) and ultramarine blue, I can
mix a violet that’s warm and somewhat
dull. If, however, I substitute alizarin
crimson (a cool red) for the cadmium
red light, I get a violet that’s cooler
and more intense. Why? Because the
richest violets are made from reds that
lie closer to blue, like alizarin crim-
son, and from blues that lie closer to
red, like ultramarine blue. For better
understanding, try some color experi-
ments while referring to a color wheel.
(See Mixed Violets, above.)
Brushing Up
ABOVE: Mixtures of different reds and blues yield different violets. Here you see a grid
of six different violets mixed from three different blues. In the top row I added cad-
mium red medium and white to each blue; in the bottom row, I added alizarin crimson
and white to each blue. The intensity and temperature of a violet will vary, of course,
with the proportion of its components. To see how this works, make your own swatches.
MIXED VIOLETS
ABOVE: The top row of swatches shows color drawdowns of six violets by Gamblin Art-
ist’s Oil Colors (although quinacridone magenta is listed on the Gamblin website as
a red, to my eye it’s close enough to violet to be included here). The thicker paint at
the bottom of the drawdown swatches is the mass tone of the color. The undertone
became evident as I drew the paint out thinly toward the top of the swatch. A visible
pencil line a third of the way from the top indicates the transparency of the paint.
Note that dioxazine purple is such a powerful, staining color that, although transpar-
ent, it nearly obscures the pencil line. The bottom row of swatches shows a tint of
each color, made with titanium-zinc white. Violets are often so dark, white needs to
be added to make the color easier to see.
TEXT CONTINUED FROM PAGE 20
ultramarine blue +
cadmium red medium +
white
cobalt blue +
cadmium red medium +
white
phthalo blue +
cadmium red medium +
white
ultramarine blue +
alizarin crimson +
white
cobalt blue +
alizarin crimson +
white
phthalo blue +
alizarin crimson +
white
TUBED VIOLETS
ultramarine
violet
dioxazine
purple
cobalt
violet
manganese
violet
quinacridone
violet
quinacridone
magenta
UNDERTONE
MASS TONE
TINT
24 artistsmagazine.com
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