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KEY WEST, USAOOCloser to Havana than Miami, POPULATION 25,000SIZE 5 square miles

Key West has always been the place to abscond to when things get too much up north. In the late 1940s, President Truman ran the

country from here when the stress of Washington got to his head; Hemingway wrote his war novels here in peace under the

Caribbean sun (in the company of

a six-toed cat called Snow White) and thousands of American students flock here annually to let off steam at the close of the

spring term. Approaching via US Route 1 – the solitary highway that spans blue shallows all the way from mainland Florida – Key

West’s escapist appeal is soon evident: handsome townhouses with creaking shutters and shady verandas, boho boutiques and

palm-lined promenades. Make for Mallory Square (on the main island, just behind Sunset Key, pictured in the foreground); this

seafront open space – busy with acrobats, fire-eaters and other street entertainers – is the place to get the pulse of Key West life.

OSingapore or Kuala Lumpur on Turkish Airlines (one stop in Istanbul). The island is a 3GETTING THERE½-hour drive away. Fly to Miami from

Best for Americana

EXTRAORDINARY PLACES TO STAY

82 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 PHOTOGRAPHS: HOTEL ÉCLAT BEIJING, M SOCIAL SINGAPORE

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98 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016

MINI GUIDEMuseums in Washington DC

COMPILED BY LORNA PARKES, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM KARLA ZIMMERMAN AND REGIS ST LOUIS. PHOTOGRAPHS: JOE VOGAN/ALAMY, JAMES DI LORETO/SMITHSONIAN, ERIC LONG/NATIONAL AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM, SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, RON BLUNT, SMITH COLLECTION/GADO/GETTY IMAGES

Norway essentials The know-howFURTHER READING

Lonely Planet’s DCcoverage of DC’s museums, while (US$19.99) has in-depth Pocket Washington DCWashington

(US$13.99) and Washington DCare more condensed guides. The Smithsonian app (si.edu/Make My Day (US$9.99)

apps/smithsonianmobile ) is a handy tool to search the institution’s collections and access tours and podcasts.

Empire of Mud(Amazon) is an account of tenements, slave trading and corrupt by JD Dickey

politics in the capital’s early days.

IN MEMORIAMDC is the USA’s memorial capital; don’t miss these:OLincoln Memorial Abraham

Lincoln (pictured below) gazes peacefully along the Mall from his Doric-columned temple. OVietnam Veterans Memorial

Simple and moving, this black wall reflects the names of the Vietnam War’s 58,000 or more Americans who gave their lives.

OKing’s likeness emerges from a mountain of granite. OMartin Luther King MemorialNational WWII Memorial Dr

Soaring columns and stirring quotes mark this memorial smack in the Mall’s midst. OFranklin Delano Roosevelt

Memorial oasis of alcoves, fountains and contemplative inscriptions. OMarine Corps War Memorial FDR’s monument is an

A statue group recreates the famous photo showing the capture of the Japanese island of Iwo Jima in 1945.

offers four rooms in a beautiful row house. The 1883 abode is stuffed with crystal chandeliers,^ Chester A Arthur House B&B

antique oil paintings, oriental rugs and a mahogany panelled staircase (chesterarthurhouse.com; 23 Logan Circle NW;

US$145).and modern art frame the bold interior of Chrome-and-glass furniture The George. Its Capitol

Hill location is perfect for museum sightseeing. There’s also a limited number of free bicycles available for guests (hotelgeorge.

com; 15 E St NW; from US$309).

in the lively suburb of Adams Morgan, On a shady residential street WHERE TO STAYAdam’s Inn has inviting,

homey rooms in two adjacent townhouses and a carriage house, plus a garden patio (adamsinn.com; 1746 Lanier Pl; from US$89).

Washington Dulles airport is 24 miles west of central DC. Fly on Qatar via Doha or United with TRANSPORT

one stopover in San Francisco or Chicago from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur (united.com). From Dulles, the Silver Line

Express bus runs to Wiehle-Reston East metro station, from where it’s possible to catch a train to the city centre, taking

60–75 minutes in all (bus US$5; flydulles.com/iad/about-washington-flyer). A taxi from the airport is US$60–US$68.

Fares on DC’s metro system start at US$1.70 (wmata.com). SmarTrip cards entitle users to US$1 off the paper metro fare.

The George is one of the best boutique hotels in Washington

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Tear out page here then fold along the dotted lines TURN OVER FOR MAP AND NUMBER LOCATIONS SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 97
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MINI GUIDEMuseums in
Washington DCLargely thanks to the heavy-hitting and multi-
branched Smithsonian Institution, America’s capital has become synonymous with world-class museums worth planning a trip around.
An elephantine welcome at the National Museum of Natural History
History
Kid-friendlyOF NATURAL HISTORY NATIONAL MUSEUM Off the beaten track
Egyptian mummies, a giant squid, and tarantula feedings thrill young minds at this universally loved venue. Don’t miss the
45-carat Hope Diamond (a rare blue type), the Easter Island heads and the enormous stuffed creatures in the Mammal Hall
(mnh.si.edu; cnr 10th St & Constitution Ave NW; 10am–5.30pm, see website for extended hours calendar; free).
SPACE MUSEUM Another popular Smithsonian highlight, this museum inspires^ NATIONAL AIR AND
kids with moon rocks, spaceships and wild simulator rides. Everyone flocks to see the Wright brothers’ flyer, Amelia
Earhart’s natty red plane and the Apollo 11 Lunar Module. There’s also an on-site IMAX cinema and planetarium, plus a super-size
annexe 23 miles out of town (airandspace.si.edu; 600 Independence Ave SW; 10am–5.30pm, see website for
extended hours calendar; free).
Budding journalists will love that this museum, charting the history of news and journalism,^ NEWSEUM
offers the chance to report ‘live from the White House’ via the TV studio (and get the take-home video to prove it).
The rest is impressive for kids and adults alike, with Pulitzer Prize-winning photojournalism, a 9/11 gallery and reams of
interesting footage on historic news events, such as Hurricane Katrina (newseum.org; 555 Pennsylvania Ave NW;
9am–5pm; adults/children over 6 US$22.95/US$13.95).
OF AMERICAN HISTORY The centrepiece at this popular Smithsonian member is the flag^ NATIONAL MUSEUM
that inspired The Star-Spangled Banner, the US national anthem. Other highlights include Abraham Lincoln’s top
hat and Dorothy’s slippers from The Wizard of Oz (americanhistory.si.edu; cnr 14th St & Constitution Ave NW;
10am–5.30pm, see website for extended hours calendar; free). US HOLOCAUST
MEMORIAL MUSEUM This harrowing museum deepens understanding of the Holocaust – its victims, perpetrators and
bystanders. The galleries use artefacts, historic film footage and witness testimonies. Between March and August, you
will need a museum pass to see the permanent exhibition: book well ahead online (ushmm.org; 100 Raoul Wallenberg Pl SW;
10am–5.15pm; entry free, booking US$1).
OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY AND CULTURE The newest Smithsonian^ NATIONAL MUSEUM
museum covers the diverse experience of African Americans with exhibits that include Louis Armstrong’s trumpet. The swish
new building will be open by time of publishing (nmaahc.si.edu; 1400 Constitution Ave NW; 10am–5.30pm; timed
passes must be reserved online – free).
Nuance is not on the agenda at this museum showcasing the War on Drugs, brought to you by the^ DEA MUSEUM
Drug Enforcement Administration (DEA). Exhibits cover the last century-and-a-half of drug use, including Nancy Reagan’s ‘Just Say
No’ commercials from the 1980s and relics from old opium dens (deamuseum.org; 700 Army Navy Dr, entrance on S Hayes St;
10am–4pm Tue–Fri, closed Sat–Mon; free). (^) NATIONAL MUSEUM OF
WOMEN IN THE ARTS The only US museum exclusively devoted to women’s artwork fills this Renaissance Revival
mansion. Its collection – more than 4,000 works – moves from Renaissance artists such as Lavinia Fontana to 20th-century
pieces by Frida Kahlo, Georgia O’Keeffe and Helen Frankenthaler (nmwa.org; 1250 New York Ave; 10am–5pm
Mon–Sat, from noon Sun; adults/below 18 US$10/US$8).
HOUSE Escaped slave, abolitionist, author and statesman Frederick Douglass^ FREDERICK DOUGLASS
occupied this beautifully sited house from 1877 until his death in 1895. Original furnishings, books, photographs and other personal
belongings paint a compelling portrait of this great man. The museum is a bus ride from the city centre, and visits are by guided
tour (nps.gov/frdo; 1411 W St SE, Anacostia; free, US$1 to book online).
See milestones of flight at the National Air and Space Museum
Ruby slippers at the National Museum of American History
The hilltop Frederick Douglass National Historic Site
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MINI GUMINI GUMINI GUMMINI GUMINI GUuseums in Washington DCGUIDEIDEIDEIDEIDE
EASY TRIPS
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 33
5
PHOTOGRAPH: CITY OF SYDNEY
A unique stage for local and international artists to showcase their wit and spirit, Art & About Sydney has been a shared celebration of creativity and
identity for over 13 years, flourishing year on year with avid support from the government to foster a nurturing environment for the arts through grants, public art
programs, and the encouragement of expressive installations. An amalgamation of theatre, dance, film, art, photography and so much more, the Art & About Sydney
program has been transformed into an ongoing yearlong calendar of creativity, and for the upcoming months of September and October, visitors to the city can
look forward to three standout events: Australian Life, Little Sydney Lives, and Hidden Sydney – The Glittering Mile. Australian Life is an outdoor
gallery showcasing the unique sights that make up, well,
Australian life. Held at Hyde Park North, the exhibition will feature the work of 22 finalists, each chosen by a panel of photographers, artists and curators from work submitted
by emerging and professional photographers across the country, all contending for the final prize of $10,000. From close-up moments of reflection to a wide-angle on the
collective hopes and dreams of all Australians, these stunning shots are as diverse, interesting and surprising as the country that inspired them, and look beyond
iconic images to reveal new insights into the Australian identity. night at Hidden Sydney – The Glittering Mile. An immersive, Get a dose of cabaret with a
exhilarating and witty experience set over four floors of The Nevada, the former Sydney brothel which once boasted the world’s biggest bed, Hidden Sydney – The
Glittering Mile is a narrative filled with drag queens, madams of the
MAKE IT HAPPENstyle program that packed as much art as possible into a After 13 years of a festival-
one-month schedule, Art & About Sydney now offers an ongoing yearlong calendar of creativity that still balances major projects with intimate
exchanges and though-provoking exhibitions in unusual spaces across the city. Explore the whole program on artandabout.com.au.
Singapore and Kuala Lumpur via Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Airlines respectively; both conduct multiple daily flights to Fly direct to Sydney from
this iconic Australian city. Within
Get acquainted with Sydney’s artistic side
Art installations spill over into the streets of Sydney for Art & About
Sydney itself, the Opal smartcard ticket can be used on trains, buses, ferries and light rail, and can be used beyond the city centre if you would like to do
additional sightseeing in the Blue Mountains, Central Coast, or Southern Highlands surrounds. (^) QT Sydney, the stylish boutique Be where the cool cats are at
joint housed within the historical theatre district. This immersive and luxurious Sydney accommodation is the perfect complement to an artistic
design-centric weekend (from US$360 per pax per night; qthotelsandresorts.com/sydney-cbd).
night, quick-witted bouncers, and crims, crooks and other eccentrics alike as you relive the notorious world of Kings Cross through its heydays during the 50s, 60s and 70s. “Enter, if you dare!” Book your limited season tickets at ticketmaster.com.au.
30 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 PHOTOGRAPH: KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION
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Give thanks on Chuseok Day in South Korea
Ganggangsullae, a Korean all-women folk song and dance, is performed on the night of the brightest full
moon during Chuseok
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EXTRAORDINARY PLACES TO STAY
80 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
places to stayWORDS JOSMIN ONG
Extraordinary
WORD SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 201 6 29
S: MELISSA LORRAINE
CHUA. PHOTOGRAPH: ALIVE
COVERAGE
Easy Trips
Partake in South Korea’s Thanksgiving celebrationsGorge yourself on gourmet in BangkokSoak in Shikoku’s autumn atmosphereParty your nights away in Singapore
Critique some art in Sydney
including
AUSTRIAN ALPS
42 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016
Plan your trip
MAP ILLUSTRATION: ALEX VERHILLLE. PHOTOGRAPHS: EVERETT/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK, JTB PHOTO/SUPERSTOCK, MARIHA-KITCHEN/ISTOCK/GETTY, MAT
T MUNRO
(^1) and mountains on all sides,With its impe-rial architecture Innsbruck
has a unique claim to be the capital of the Alps (p46).
(^2) Zillertalleys creates a natural Classic Tyrolean scenery in the’s val-
arena for hiking, rock-climbing and yodel-ling too (p48).
(^3) most legendary drives: the soaring Fuel up for one of Europe’s
Grossglockner High Alpine Road (p50).
(^4) of landSalzburger- Beneath the mountains a world of fro-
zen grandeur opens up to explorers (p52).
(^5) in the Lake District Finish your trip by unwinding Austrian ,
where sailing boats pass in the shadow of the peaks (p54).
AUSTRIAN ALPSHS
GREAT ESCAPE
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2016 41
Great Escape
townBegin your mountain adventure with a wander through the of Innsbruck. Then don your hiking boots to explore the Zillertal, before^ Baroque old
taking a high Alpineof Salzburgerland. Round things off with someroad trip and a tour deep into the sailingin the Austrian Lake District. natural wonders
AUSTRIAN ALPS
WORDS OLIVER BERRY @olivertomberry O PHOTOGRAPHS MATT MUNRO
The village of Hallstatt in Upper Austria is a highlight of the World Heritage-listed Salzkammergut region –
Austria’s Lake District
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WORDSOLIV
MAGAZINE
ASIA
SEPTEMBER/
OCTOBER 2016
SGRM D 7. (^5020)
RP 75.00NT^2700
THB MCI (P) 079/08/2016, PPS 1747/12/2012(022909) (^1959772010082017)
05
6 MINI GUIDES LONDON X BRUSSELS X GOTHENBURG X BARCELONA X NORWAY X WASHINGTON DC
A 2-NIGHTS’ STAY* AT THE TUNE HOTEL
DOWNTOWN KL FOR 2
Win!
EAST ASIA,
THE INDIAN OCEAN AND THE FLORIDA KEYS
Island
FROM GREECE TO SOUTHFROM G
perfect
Find your
CITY AT A
GLANCE
A contrast of
old and new
in Lima
GREAT ESCAPE
AUSTRIAN ALPS
Beauty shaped by nature
and human hands