Mother Earth News_December_2016_2017

imately 1^1 ⁄ 2 inches larger than the diameter

of your inner wall.

I constructed the base by welding part of

an old water heater around the bottom rim

of a semitrailer dual-wheel spacer or brake

drum. You can use anything that’s made of

at least^1 ⁄ 4 -inch-thick steel and has some

kind of a grid/spoke structure to allow air

and ash to pass through.

Fit the inner chamber wall over the base

to hold firewood. I cut the bottom and top

off an old 100-pound propane cylinder.

Wrap^1 ⁄ 2 -inch copper tubing around the

burn chamber to create the initial heat

exchanger. Leave approximately 10 inches

sticking out beyond the top and bottom

of the inner chamber wall. (See “Heat

Exchangers” on Page 69.)

Cut a notch into the bottom of your

outer chamber wall for the copper coil to

exit through.

Slide the outer chamber wall down over

the copper tubing. Make sure the lid fits

over the outer chamber.

After you’ve assembled the stove, you’ll

want to mark and cut a hole in the base

skirt/grate and insert some 2-inch steel pipe

to serve as the air intake. Install the inlet

at a 45-degree angle, somewhere near the

center of the grate. Some of the debris fall-

ing out of the stove may be hot coals, so it’s

important that the inlet empties downward

into a fireproof container.

Riser Tube

This is a vertical tube in which the hot gas

and flames rise, creating a strong convection

force that develops the draft. While the outer

chamber wall would not be necessary on the

riser tube, if you plan to vent straight out of

the riser tube directly into a stovepipe, it will

Homestead Hacks

68 MOTHER EARTH NEWS December 2016/January 2017

Search your local salvage yard to find and Search your local salvage yard to find and Search your local salvage yard to find and

fit the components for your own “Dragon.”fit the components for your own “Dragon.”fit the components for your own “Dragon.”

Circle #63; see card pg 97

p 66-70 Homestead_Hacks_5.indd 68 10/11/16 9:16 AM