Cruising World - June 2018

(Chris Devlin) #1
UNDERWAY

26


cruisingworld.com

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AMY

I ALTO N


t’s all too easy to be wary
of a local vessel approach-
ing your boat as you settle
into a new anchorage. Half-
way around the world aboard

our Fountaine Pajot Helia 44
catamaran, Starry Horizons,
we’ve had many boats ap-
proach us, but one stands out
among the rest.

My husband, David, and I
had just dropped anchor at
Motu Murimaora on the east
side of Huahine, in French
Polynesia, and we were ap-
proached by a lone outrigger
canoe. The young man smiled
and waved. We smiled and
waved. Wordlessly, he held on-
to our transom and reached
down between his knees to
bring out a waterproof box. I
sat on the steps as he presented
us with a bound book, which
he opened to the first page,
pointing at the name written
and then at himself: Paul.
Then he flipped through
to show us pages and pages
of a guest book. We saw boat
cards, drawings and handwrit-
ten letters to Paul, thanking
him for their experience in his
anchorage. Paul got to the first
blank page and handed me a
pen. I sat down to sign and
tape in a boat card.
We were unsure for a little
while about Paul’s communica-
tion method, but soon pieced

together that he is mute and
probably deaf. Using grunts
and hand signals, he invited us
to shore to look around and
pointed out the best places
for snorkeling. I pantomimed
a snorkel mask and pointed
to my watch, setting our af-
ternoon plans. Before pulling
away, he reached farther in-
to the well of his canoe and
pulled out three young husked
coconuts as a gift.
The next morning, Paul
stopped by again with a gift
of three papayas. I walked my
fingers across the air, held up
two fingers, and pointed to
my watch. Paul enthusiastical-
ly nodded, and my afternoon
plans were set again.
After lunch, I took my
dinghy over to the small dock,
and Paul came out to meet
me, greeting me with a hug
and flowers. He started by
walking me across the motu,
through a coconut plantation,
to the oceanside beach. When
we hit the shore, we turned

PAUL’S MOTU


The crew of Starry Horizons has the stunning anchorage at
Huahine, French Polynesia, to itself.
Free download pdf