Cruising World - June 2018

THAT CUBAN MYSTIQUE

june/july 2018

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in three waves. Quince Amor was part of the last group, with a 1900
start time, and we couldn’t wait to get off the dock. Once under-
way, we were treated to one of Key West’s famous sunsets, and
spirits were high aboard.
The Quince Amor crew was fairly well divided between
experienced sailors and first-timers. Green was our designated
captain and devised a watch schedule that paired the saltier crew-
members with those less experienced. Our crossing started out
easy enough, but as the moonless night went on, the wind in-
creased to about 20 or so knots with confused seas. A Saba 50 is
a big boat, and a far cry from the classic ketch I’m used to sail-
ing. Helming from the flybridge while barreling along through the
Gulf Stream in the dark of night was quite the experience. Throw
in some ship traffic and boat systems that we were all still getting
used to (not to mention a few seasick crewmembers), and there

were some tense moments. Needless to say, we were all happy for

daylight and our first sight of Cuba’s coastline.

On the approach to the Marina Hemingway entrance, we

caught up with some other rally boats (so much for not inundating

the officials) and queued up outside the channel, where a red pow-

erboat zoomed up to each boat to tell them when it was their turn

to head in. The entrance itself is a bit tricky, with a reef on either

side of the channel, then a sharp turn to port to land on the cus-

toms dock. Clearing into Cuba was a simple affair, and included a

round of visitors — customs and agriculture officials, a doctor and

With steep-sided limestone mogotes dotting the landscape,

the Viñales Valley, in northwest Cuba, is spectacular. This

region is known for its tobacco farms, and we received an

education in cigar production.