Genoa is a fantastic boating base for a

season or two if you can organise a berth.

The cruising is fascinating in all directions

The tropical

paradise that is

Genoa’s Biosphere

A kaleidoscope

of colour on the

Rapallo waterfront

T

he fabulous seaport of Genoa lies at the

hub of Italy’s Ligurian coast, which sweeps

in a grand curve from the French border

near Menton to the glittering Gulf of La

Spezia. Liguria is a wonderful region of

mountains, rolling hills and the sunny,

south-facing Italian Riviera. Between

Menton and Genoa, the shores are

mostly soft and gentle with a convenient trail of marinas

and timeless fi shing harbours. East of Genoa, the Riviera has

a steeper, wilder character, reaching a climax along the sheer

cliffs of the Cinque Terre.

Genoa is a warm and romantic city, an ancient trading

post built on a coastal mound. It is also Italy’s busiest port

and one of the great names in the history of seafaring.

The vast docks handle all manner of commerce, but this

vibrant regional capital also has several excellent marinas.

Yachting is a priority here and there’s every conceivable

facility. The original inner harbour – Porto Antico – has

been sympathetically restored and developed into one

of Europe’s most pedestrian-friendly city waterfronts.

Two hours fl ying time from London, Genoa is a fantastic

boating base for a season or two if you can organise a berth.

I always fi nd just being in Italy relaxing and the cruising here

is fascinating in all directions. To the east, you can make short

trips to chic Portofi no or nearby Rapallo, with their colourful

facades of closely packed houses. Further round, the precariously

perched villages of the Cinque Terre coast provide breathtaking

vistas before La Spezia opens up past Portovenere.

West of Genoa are the charming harbours and marinas

of the Riviera di Ponente. San Remo is a classic Italian resort,

backed by a rambling old town, a wooded hill and a 12th-

century cathedral. For offshore forays, the mountains of Corsica

will soon beckon you south for a landfall you’ll never forget!

GENOA HARBOUR

Genoa’s docks and basins sprawl eight miles along the coast,

fronted by long breakwaters that look impenetrable from seaward.

However, most visiting boats will be making for the city’s old

harbour and can use the east entrance near Punta Vagno. This is

the most attractive end of the approaches, with a holiday seafront

along the coast road. Keep to the north side of the channel to avoid

traffi c, particularly the numerous ferries streaming in and out. Soon

you pass Fiera di Genova Marina, site of the Genoa Boat Show,

and then the fairway curves north towards the heart of the city.

The inner harbour is quite a spectacle. To starboard you gaze

along a gleaming row of superyachts at Marina Molo Vecchio.

Further in are the tall white spars of Il Bigo, a futuristic crane

whose capsule lifts visitors above the harbour for panoramic

views. Nearby is Genoa’s renowned aquarium with a biosphere

alongside. North of the aquarium, Marina Porto Antico

accommodates boats of a more normal size and its inner

berths are stern-to converted warehouse buildings occupied

by shops and restaurants. The city stacks up behind the harbour

in a cubist daub of apartments, exotic spires and oases of green.

The Genoese architect Renzo Piano directed the ambitious

renovations of Porto Antico in the early 1990s and the result has

successfully reconnected the city to the sea, which was so central

to Genoa’s history and prosperity. For boat owners, Porto Antico

is fascinating to explore, providing virtually everything you need

a short stroll from your mooring.

If you can’t negotiate a slot in the centre, Genoa has several

other marinas, each with its own appeal. Near the east harbour

entrance, there are visitor berths at Fiera di Genova Marina and

at the Yacht Club Italiano in Abruzzi basin. Alternatively, about

fi ve miles to the west, you can enter a dock north of Genoa airport

where Marina Genova Aeroporto has 500 berths. There are more

pontoons at a nearby suburb called Sestri Ponente, a somewhat

industrial quarter but agreeable when you get to know it.

The lighthouse at

Portofi no is more

than 100 years old

40

TRAVEL