thrive here, but sadly the Mediterranean Monk seals that we had
hoped to glimpse fail to appear. There are a surprising number
of yachts already in situ but no other motor boats, and we wonder
again why so many people fail to take advantage of these shoulder
months which are often the best in the Med.
We have one more night at anchor back in Alonnisos before
heading for the tiny port and fi nd one of those perfect one-boat
anchorages where you can tie to rocks on either side of the bay and
bob gently, stern to the beach, in complete solitude. With a sandy
bottom and just a spit of beach, this little cove is perfection, and
even the internet fails to reach us. It is only the fact that the wind
is due to rise that persuades us to move into the nearby harbour,
where we are guided by a member of the port police to a spot on
the quay that is several feet too short for Zaffi na! The next place
we’re offered is near the ferry dock, where we drop anchor and tie
on stern-to, despite knowing we’ll get a regular buffeting of wake.
ROCK AND ROLL
We want to visit the old town, perched on top of a nearby hill
and reputed to be very pretty, and in the morning we get a taxi
up to the chora. It is indeed pretty, but it would be even prettier
TRAVELif it wasn’t for the huge black clouds rolling
in, and after a brief stroll around, we run
for shelter as the heavens open and the
wind springs up from nowhere to lash
the hilltop. This blow has come early as
it wasn’t expected until tonight and now
we have to make a decision: do we stay
in the mediocre shelter of the port or
make a dash back to the more substantial
harbour at Skopelos? Hoping this is a brief
squall before the main storm comes in, we
decide to sail back to Skopelos but our fi rst
problem is the anchor. The yacht that came
in after us clearly pulled our anchor out of position when
they set theirs, and now the two are entangled. The occupants
are not on board as we try to separate the two chains, but the
wind is pushing us around. Eventually a fi shing boat comes
to our assistance and with much gesticulating, we are released.
Our problems aren’t yet over! When we turn into the narrow
channel separating Alonnisos and Skopelos, the waves are
daunting. Zaffi na is heroic as she battles through, shipping
swimming pool-loads of water down the side decks and bravely
trying to keep her nose up but from time to time, we are hit by
a particularly steep wave which rolls us horribly as we traverse
it. A cupboard door fl ies open and wine bottles shoot across the
saloon, the fruit bowl fl ies off the table and even the computer
is thrust from the grip of its mat on to the fl oor. Surprisingly,
nothing is broken but I stand ready in the galley in case of further
escapees while Frank steers a diffi cult course from the lower helm.
Thank goodness it is such a short distance between the islands;
the only good thing that can be said for the trip is that it is brief,
and within 40 minutes we are back in Skopelos Town and tying
on to the berth we left less than a week ago. A couple of hours
later, the wind drops away again for a few hours and we wish we
had delayed our crossing until the afternoon. Late in the evening,
however, when it has risen to gale force and we’re being whipped
by torrential rain, we are simply relieved we’re securely tied!The scent in the air is a heady mixture
of pine and eucalyptus, olive and orange
blossom, warm earth and wild herbsZaffi na tucks neatly into
the perfect one-boat
anchorage at AlonissosSafely tied up to
weather the storm
in Skopelos TownSkopelos
Town church