Pontoon & Deck Boat Magazine – March 2018

46 Pontoon^ & Deck Boat March^2018 http://www.pdbmagazine.com

the manufacturer found performs best. The only drawback

here is that engine manufacturers like to sell their own brand

props. Read up on message boards to find out if an aftermarket

propeller performs better on your combo—but remember,

different props might dictate a whole new setup. Remember your

boating elevation when checking for correct prop size and engine

RPM at top speed; the higher the elevation, the less power the

engine will make, dictating the need to pitch down to a smaller

prop.

Setback: Engine setback has a dramatic effect on

performance. If yours is a performance hull and the manufacturer

used a setback jack plate, for best results make sure your rig

has one too—right down to the same brand, setback and engine

mounting position.

Rigging Concerns

While boat builders and dealers’ rigging practices have

come a huge distance from those of even 10 or 15 years ago,

sometimes even the best make mistakes. Here are some areas

to check before taking delivery. Mistakes and shortcuts in these

critical areas can shorten component service life, compromise

performance, and sometimes even create potentially dangerous

situations:

Are the steering hoses (hydraulic steering) or cables

(mechanical steering) routed properly, with no sharp bends or cut

corners, and no protruding screws to poke holes anywhere along

their pathway from helm to engine?

Sounds silly, but does the engine tilt all the way up without

hitting a transom bulkhead or perimeter shroud? That’s important

especially for those who keep their boat moored or docked all

season; the gearcase should clear the water when fully tilted, to

reduce corrosion and marine growth buildup.

On the opposite side of that fence—does the engine trim in

enough to pop the boat on plane with a full load, and keep rough

water bouncing at bay? It amazes me that even today I have seen

transoms built at too steep an angle to allow enough trim-in.

Is the rigging under the decks, transom and console clean?

The wire and hose routing should be neat with no “rats nests” so

it’s easy to troubleshoot issues should they arise. Again, routing

should include no sharp corners; all wires and hoses should be

supported by clamps and wire looms, and all wires protected by

fuses or breakers.

Here’s a pet peeve: is the fuel fill and vent properly installed?

Simply put, can you fill it from a filling station pump without

the auto-cutoff on the pump clicking off every few seconds, or

spilling fuel out of the vent before the tank is full? It pays to

check. NOTE: If oil-injected, note the outboard’s fill and check

oil locations. The tank should be easy to access and fill without

fancy funnels and risk of spillage, and checking it for oil level

should not require a flashlight and contorting your body to see it.

Engine Checks

That new outboard costs a mint. Here are a few areas to

check to ensure yours is the right one for your boat and that it’s

equipped properly for your use:

Can your engine turn up to the manufacturer’s recommended

RPM range? This is vitally important. RPM too high and your

engine could fail to excessive piston and cranktrain speed; RPM

too low will lug your engine and cause overheating, piston and

bearing failure. It’s important that the engine turn up to the

maximum RPM with a light load; this way, with a heavy load on a

hot muggy day, it will still turn up to the lower end of the range.

Check this during your test ride!

Is the outboard included in your boat package large enough

for adequate performance, even a few years down the road? I

always say that you can never have too much power—you don’t

have to push the throttle all the way forward all the time. But

when you don’t have enough, you will quickly become soured on

your rig. A test ride before you sign will confirm your thoughts.

Here’s one almost nobody checks: are the factory sacrificial

anodes all where they should be, and correct for the type of

water where you’ll use the boat? Zinc and aluminum anodes are

best for salt water; magnesium anodes protect better in fresh.

Corrosion is a huge issue, and with outboards so expensive, you’ll

want yours properly protected.

Boat and Trailer Matchup

Last but not least—here are some simple items to check for

trailering safety.

Is the trailer big enough for the boat? Check the trailer’s

load rating sticker and ensure there’s a comfort margin there,

especially if you regularly trailer to the launch and carry a load.

Remember that extra fuel, gear and coolers add a lot of weight.

Factor that in when checking your new trailer. The bunk supports

for the boat should extend all the way to the transom, preferably

a bit beyond—after all, this is where the biggest load (the

outboard) is.

Is the boat balanced properly fore-to-aft? The tongue weight

should be between 5 and 10 percent of the gross trailer weight.

If the package weighs 2,500 pounds, therefore, there should be

at least 125 but not more than 250 pounds on the tongue. This is

critical for proper towing attitude and safety. Check it!

Do the lights all work, and is there a proper ground wire

secured to the trailer (NOT grounded through the coupler and

hitch ball contact!)?

If required by the rig’s weight and your state’s towing laws,

trailer brakes should be included; check with a short test-tow to

ensure that they work correctly.

All these checks take time, research and effort before you

buy. You’ll be glad you made them when your rig tows, launches,

runs and performs to your satisfaction.