Cruising Helmsman - July 2018

hardware stores, to check for rust inside
coolant reservoirs and heat exchangers;
paper towel for checking oil levels and
consistency; plus a pair of throwaway
gloves to protect your hands when poking
round engines and bilges.
A notebook and pen round out the
list, although I prefer to just photograph
everything and not make notes at
all. This stems from my background
surveying rigs, where a notebook and
pencil can be inconvenient.
Apart from all of the above, the most
important tools are your eyes and a
healthy cynicism about the causes of
stains and leaks.

THE BOAT

You need to record the details of each
boat, if only to delineate where the photos
for this particular boat begin amongst a
series of similar photos of other boats.
With rig surveys we always took a photo
of the name before stepping aboard. This
may be all the identification you need,
but a record of hull and registration
numbers might be handy later. You will
need to check ownership, encumbrances,
registration and so on if the sale proceeds.

27

http://www.mysailing.com.au

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED

• small, powerful torch ideally with a
  magnet on the end. A magnet not only
  lets you check for ferrous metals, but
  allows the torch to be stuck to metal
  bits like the engine or steel tanks in
  order to illuminate the engine room.
  Ensure it has fresh batteries


• a mobile phone, tablet or camera
  to photograph everything for later
  reference. Believe me, you will not
  remember all details. A digital image
  can also be enlarged on screen for
  closer scrutiny. The professional trick
  for identifying the photographs is to
  mark one of your tools red (port) on one
  side and green (starboard) on the other.
  When taking photos always have this
  tool in the frame with the appropriate
  side up because you will forget which
  side you were on


• a multi-tool has many uses, but I mainly
  use the knife blade to test for softness
  in timber and adhesion of fibreglass
  tabbing on bulkheads


• a very small hammer with either a
  steel or a nylon head. This is for tapping
  surfaces to check for soundness. It is
  applied lightly as a sounding tool, not
  to damage the boat. Use your hammer
  on all surfaces of the hull, deck and
  superstructure to detect dull spots
  that indicate moisture or rot


• an extendable mirror is handy for
  seeing into inaccessible places like the
  tops of fuel tanks. You may also be able
  to poke your camera into places you
  can’t access


• a Loupe is a powerful magnifying glass
  used mainly to check for cracks in metal
  fittings, particularly rigging parts.

You probably already own most of

the tools required for a DIY survey.

THE SURVEY

Let us say you have already looked at a

potential buy in terms of how well it suits

your requirements and taste. Time to put

on your surveyor’s cap.

A boat assessor needs to think like a

detective. If something seems amiss, we

need to consider why. See a problem on the

outside? Check inside that area for damage.

Take a slow look at the overall condition

of the boat. Consider how well it has been

looked after. Sloppy maintenance, lack of

maintenance in one area like the engine,

or unrepaired damage, indicates the

owner’s general attitude.

If there is a maintenance log, have a

careful look at it. Was the maintenance

preventative, or done after something

broke? Look for recurring issues. The mere

existence of a genuine maintenance log is

usually a bonus and can be proof of a well-

cared for boat.

I don’t necessarily conduct a pre-

survey assessment in any particular

order, but prefer to start by checking

potentially deal-breaking items.

Finding them early saves time and effort.

However, in the absence of major deal

breakers, it pays to work logically to

ensure you do not forget anything.

HULL

Walk or row around the boat and look

carefully at the hull, with and without your

sunglasses. Slight changes in colour, lifting

paint, or overspray could indicate repairs.

Repairs are not necessarily an issue

but, if poorly done or denied, could be

a problem. Flat spots or waves in the

topsides may signal incorrectly fitted

chainplates or bulkheads.

Is the hull shiny, or dull and chalky?

If the gloss is gone, does it need a good

cut-and-polish costing hundreds of

dollars, or a repaint costing thousands?

Rust streaks in line with stainless steel

fittings indicates deterioration, probably

RIGHT: Although the serious multitool (at top)

is more useful generally, the $2 mini-version

slips into a pocket and is fine for probing rot

and delamination.