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http://www.mysailing.com.auTOP TO BOTTOM: Vertically mounted
stanchion has been yanked outboard,
pushing the lower section of its mounting
into the deck and causing these star
cracks. Look inside for leak damage at
this point. The mould visible on deck (at
top right) shows lack of care generally.
Star cracks on this neglected hull
show it has been thumped in this area.
Check below at this point for interior
delamination.
The pigeons nesting in the crates tell one
story, but does the direction of the line
on this winch indicate inexperience? Hint:
which way do winches turn?A triangle-section sail needle pushed
through supple material will leave only
a tiny hole as it pushes the threads in the
cloth aside. In brittle cloth, you will hear
and feel the fabric tearing and be left with
a triangular hole.
Ideally, take spare sails ashore and
spread them out, but if that is not practical
you can get a fair idea of condition by
looking at the corners, the material along
the leech and both ends of the luff tape.
Should you be looking at a hanked
sail, check the hanks work and are not
corroded shut.
All lightweight and nylon sails can be
checked the same way. Is the cloth crinkly
or limp? Are the corners stretched? Are
photos available to show that these sails
actually fit the boat? An old trick is for
owners to toss a few extra sails from
previous boats aboard, to add to the
perceived inventory.
ENGINE
Is the engine and engine room clean and
tidy? Does it look like no one has been
there for a long time, or is it suspiciously
clean, as if someone has just done a big
clean up? Freshly painted engines are a
give away, especially if the rust has been
painted over.
Look at the glass bowl fuel filter/water
separator. Is the fuel clean, or can you see
gunk or water in the bowl?
Pull the dipsticks for the motor and its
gearbox. Feel the oil with your fingers.
Is it gritty? Black or like honey? New oil
can indicate fastidious maintenance, or
a cover up job.
Any sign of water, moisture or corrosion
on the dipstick could mean the engine
needs a major rebuild. Wipe the dipsticks
and your fingers on your paper towel.
Take the pressure cap off the heat
exchanger. Stick your finger in there
to see what the f luid is like. Any sign
of rust, replace the cap and move on
to the next boat.
Look inside the coolant reservoir. As
with the heat exchanger, you should see
translucent red or green liquid, not mud
or rust. The coffee sticks are nicer to use
for this than your fingers.
Can you see evidence of access to the
raw water pump? Fastening screws with
their original paint and corrosion build
up around the screws both indicate the
impeller has been in place a long time.
Not good. Impellers become brittle with
time and should be regularly replaced.
Same story for the anode on the heat
exchanger. If it has not been replaced
regularly the heat exchanger may need
some expensive attention.
Does the propeller shaft turn straight or
is there a slight wobble, indicating a bend?
For a sail drive, find out if the rubber
diaphragm has ever been replaced. Its
service life is supposed to be five to seven
years, but I am yet to see one replaced at
that age.
Check the engine is cold and has not
been started and run before you arrived.
If it has, satisfy yourself about the reason.
When you start the engine from cold,
does it have good water f low at the
exhaust? Did it fire up willingly?
Check all the belts and hoses for wear.
Rubber deteriorates with age, so low
engine hours are no comfort here.
While you are in there, take out your
hammer and tap the engine beds along
the length. You should be able to hear if
the underlying timber is soft.
Move to the motor mounts and
check they are the same both sides. A
compressed mount on one side could
indicate alignment issues. Are they fixed
solidly or is there evidence of movement?HOSES, SKIN FITTINGS
AND SEACOCKS
Locate as many through-hull fittings
and associated seacocks as you can.
Try opening and closing them. Are they
stiff or corroded? Hose clamps rusty?
Rust coloured stains indicate rust coming
from somewhere. Flex the hoses. Are they
brittle or cracked? Skin fitting and seacock
failure can sink the boat, so it is important
they are in workable condition.
What is the composition of the
through-hull and seacock? Is there a
mixture of different metals, a variety of
mismatched parts, plastic bits, or things
covered with tape?
Are the hose clamps fitted correctly?
It is not uncommon to see hose clamps
fitted too far along the hose, where they
cannot clamp the hose to the tail. Often
this is because domestic hose tails, like
those cheap ones from the hardware store,
have been used.