36
Cruising Helmsman July 2018All gas bottles must be vented
overboard, not into the cockpit unless it
is self-draining and has no openings to the
interior. The bottles must be a set distance
from any openings into the hull, well
secured, in date, and not rusty. Hoses
must be in good condition, not chafed,
perished or worn. Copper pipes should
be well secured and not corroded.
Follow the supply line through the
boat to ensure it is not pinched anywhere,
or chafing, particularly where it passes
through bulkheads. Try the stove burners
and any other gas-fuelled appliances to
ensure they work.REFRIGERATION
Ideally, the refrigeration will be turned off
when you arrive at the boat. Have it switched
on and then check it is cooling. These days
many people leave electric fridges running at
the marina, so this check may not be possible.
If it is a eutectic system, check drive belts and
compressor mounts, notorious failure points.
Especially if the fridges are always on,
check for rot in the cabinetry around them.
This is often caused by condensation
keeping the area damp.
Do built-in cabinets have sufficient
insulation? For the northern parts of
Australia look for at least five centimetres,
preferably more, plus lids that are
insulated and seal properly.PRACTICAL
MAINTENANCE
TRAILER SAILERS
If you are looking at a trailer sailer,
remember the trailer is half the equation.
Is the registration of boat and trailer
current? Check the trailer frame, hitch,
brakes, mudguards and running gear.
Tyres may look great, but rubber
perishes with age. If they are over about
ten years old, they should be replaced
regardless of mileage. The manufacture
date is stamped into the wall of the tyre.
Look for the identification number or TIN.
The last four digits show the manufacture
date. For example 2316 would indicate the
tyre was made in the 23rd week of 2016.
Tyre rubber hardens as it ages, which
makes it more likely to crack and fail.
Ultraviolet exposure and proximity to
electrical equipment hastens the process,
so tyres less than ten years old may still
be past their service life. There is no actual
law about tyre replacement age, but safe
tyres are a critical component.
Does the trailer support the boat
adequately along its centreline and bilge?
Are the rollers split or the axles rusted?
Check them when the boat is launched if
you reach the point of going for a test sail.
While on the test sail, remember to go
below and check for leaks. Many TSs leak
at the centreboard case or the centreboard
pivot bolt.Check the operation of the winch and
condition of the wire. The trailer may be
rebuildable, but at what cost? Will the
owner cover this, or does the expense
make the asking price seem too high?
Ask to see the outboard started and
running, either in a drum of water or with
water supplied via hose to flushing ears. If
the owner does not have these, or seems
unfamiliar with them, that outboard has
not been flushed with freshwater as it
should be after every saltwater sail.
Check for cracks or damage to the
propeller, and look under the cowling
for corrosion.
It is unlikely but not impossible for a
trailer sailer to have hull blistering, but
at least you will be able to inspect the
entire hull. Check for flat spots caused
by inadequate trailer support, gouges
from badly set up trailer roller frames.
Also, sight along the topsides, the bit
between the waterline and the deck, for
deformation around the chainplates.
Are the rudder fittings firmly secured to
the boat and the rudder? Look underneath
the rudder box for splits and at the rudder
blade to ensure it is not warped.
Try raising and lowering the rudder.
Check that the tiller is snug and that the
rudder head is not cracked.LEFT TO RIGHT: Gelcoat
damage outside. Have a
look inside.
The delamination inside
was not obvious unless
you looked for it.
Up to a point, crazed
Perspex can be rejuvenated.
This is too far gone.
Beware the spray-on engine
rebuild, especially when
they’ve painted over the
rust (below).