he further off the beaten track I have
ventured, the more my definition of
an ‘ideal’ anchorage has changed.
Sometimes, to gain access to the shore or to
find refuge from the weather, I’ve had to take
whatever shelter nature has to offer and get
creative with my own mooring techniques.
I once spent a week escaping the wrath of the
Roaring Forties, strung up between the rocks
in a caletta (small bay) on the Argentine coast.
There was no room to swing and not enough
runway to lay out a decent anchor, but it was
the only available haven so we just adapted by
securing multiple lines ashore. Here are some
of the solutions I have used to make the most of
wild anchorages.Attaching to the shore
When the water is deep and the shore steeply
shelving, it’s not always practical or possible
to use anchors, so securing to land becomes
the most viable alternative. The most common
way to do this is by reversing towards the
shore, dropping the bow anchor on the way
so it’s pulling ‘uphill’ then running a couple of
positioning lines ashore from the stern.
It’s not simple setting up these sorts of
mooring systems and needs thought. If possible
make a dinghy recce first, or set up land anchor
points. It’s useful to have a variety of ways to
fix to the shore. I used lengths of chain that
could be secured around boulders, steel stakes
hammered into soft ground (as used with
canal boats), and webbing straps to wrap
around trees.
Once anchored, one crew member will need
to hold the boat in position against the anchor,
while a dinghy takes positioning lines ashore;
ideally use a floating line, paid out from a
reel. If shore anchors have not already been
put in place, quickly make off one line as a
temporary mooring; if in an area with trees try a
tensionless hitch. This hitch uses friction alone
and will work on any cylindrical object – simply
wrap your rope around the tree trunk four or
five times and leave. There’s no knot tying
required so this can be done by any crew.Narrow tidal channels
I try to avoid setting in-line bow and stern
anchors as slack ground tackle can easily get
caught under the boat. But, in narrow tidal
channels with no room to swing, there may
be no alternative. Anchors should be of equal
size if possible; if one anchor is smaller or has
inferior ground tackle, ensure you use extramasterclass WITH PIP HARE
HOW TO ANCHOR IN REMOTE SPOTS
scope to even out the holding capabilities.
Set your stern anchor first, dropping it from
the stern then motoring forward to lay out the
chain. You will need a double length rode when
setting the anchor initially, so attach extra line if
necessary. Motor into the tide to drop your bow
anchor then fall back gently taking up on the
stern as you go. Using a stern bridle can help
reduce the risk of the stern anchor snagging.
Set up a length of line on one stern cleat, with aloop or snatch block in the end. Pass the anchor
rope through the loop then make it off on the
opposite cleat, trimming the first piece of line
to spread the load across both cleats. Attaching
a fender to the bridle can help prevent line from
drifting under the transom. When lying on
the bow anchor, the current should carry the
fender and slack anchor line away from the
back of the boat.
A variation on this method is the Bahamian
moor, which combines the ‘V’ method of
anchoring. Set your anchors fore and aft as
previously described, but once in your final
position take the stern anchor chain up to the
bow. To avoid chain rubbing on the topsides the
stern anchor can be attached using a shackle
or rolling hitch to the bow anchor chain, then
lower the join into the water just under the bow.
If choosing this method ensure there is enough
room for your boat to lie to wind at slack water
and watch for anchor chains twisting around
each other at the turn of the tide.Anchoring for swell
Anchoring when there is a beam-on swell
can be totally miserable and even induce
seasickness. The obvious solution to this
problem is to find a more comfortable place to
stop. However, where that is not possible, then
try positioning the boat into the swell rather
than the wind.
Anchor to the wind using plenty of chain and
take time to ensure this primary anchor is well
dug in. Set a smaller anchor using the dinghy
from your windward quarter to position the
boat bow into the swell. When using this set-up
ensure your small anchor is free to drop quickly
in the event of an emergency and always
consider your escape route.ESCAPE ROUTES
Whenever anchoring in tight spaces
and with multiple anchors you need to
consider the ‘what ifs’. Think about what
would happen if conditions changed,
and make an escape plan.
I always ensure secondary anchors are
buoyed with a tripping line and attached
to the boat using rope that can be
quickly released or cut in an emergency.
Secondary anchors are always smaller
with less substantial ground tackle.
This ensures that if the whole system is
put under pressure it is the secondary
anchor that will drag.
If other boats come into your anchorage
make sure they know where your
primary anchor is set, if you are
not lying to the wind. This will avoid
any positioning problems should a
secondary anchor let go.
Above all, be prepared to drop it all and
leave if conditions change rapidly; you
can always return in the dinghy once
conditions are safe.T
PRACTICAL
When the water is too
deep, securing to land
is the best alternative