4
Braided line was used to measure
the circumference of the oar. If oars
are tapered you’ll need two measures
- one at each end of the leather position.
(^5)
A paper pattern was made around
(^1) ⁄ 8 in (2.5mm) narrower than full
width to allow for the drawing together of
the leather when stitching.
(^6)
With a set square, cut out the panel
then make holes every ¼in (5mm)
apart and^3 ⁄ 16 in (4mm) in from the edge
using a carpenter’s bradawl.
(^7)
To ensure the holes lined up the
leather was folded over and then
the second set of holes punched through
the first ones along the opposite edge.
8
This shows the cut leather piece
ready for fitting with the holes made
along the edge in a nice, even row.
(^9)
With a masking tape start guide, use
two needles to make a cross stitch
with 1mm unwaxed sailmakers’ thread. My
thread was around 6½in (20cm) long.
(^10)
As you progress draw the stitches
tight and make sure each side of the
thread is the same length. Other holes
seen are from the original boot stitching.
(^11)
As I progressed I found that using
the spike of the bradawl provided
a good method for drawing the stitching
up tight.
12
When the stitching was complete
the thread was tied off with a reef
knot drawn tight beneath the edge of the
leather and then the loose ends cut.
(^13)
I created collars for the inner and
outer ends of the leather sleeves
using a tripled Turk’s head knot made
with 4mm braided line.^14
The completed sleeves. You can still see the stitching from the old boot... the oars
may be the only ones with a CE approved stamp for use in a hazardous environment!
Practical Boat Owner t http://www.pbo.co.uk 83
SIMPLE LEATHERWORK