the chain clunked and snatched
alarmingly as the boat swung. We
were always anxious about retrieving
the anchor but always managed to do so.
Previous yachties have drawn ‘mud
maps’ of the islands, with the more
recent having some GPS coordinates.
These were a great help, as the charted
areas are often inaccurate and much is
unsurveyed. Going into Panasia Lagoon
meant going straight over apparently
drying reef on the chart as the actual
entrance is some distance away.
We visited Nimowa, Wanim, Sabara,
Bobo Eina, Bagaman, Panasia, Pana
Numara, Gigila and Sudest Islands. We
had taken principally clothes, fishing
tackle and school supplies to trade for
food and this was one of the highlights
of our days. The islanders have ‘gardens’
in which they grow yams, sweet
potatoes, papaya, bananas, island
cabbage, some citrus and of course,
coconuts. In the evening, canoes paddled
out to us wanting to trade for their fresh
produce, so we didn’t need many of our
stores but lived well on very fresh fruit
and vegetables, supplemented by fish
we caught sailing between the islands.
They also paddled out with sick people
to be seen or skin ulcers to be dressed
by nurse Stephanie. Our young,
energetic crew attracted children
everywhere playing games with them,
adding a very special side to our voyage.
On our return passage to Townsville,
we pleasingly found the current to
be still present so we had two record-
breaking days’ runs, one of 193 miles
and the next of 187 miles, which made
up for the swell and unpleasant sea.
We hope that we left a little
sustainable good behind. We were
very sad to leave Louisiade and the
wonderful, friendly and welcoming
islanders. The islanders have fresh fish
and vegetables and well-ordered clean
villages with huts made of palm weave.
We were all struck by just how happy
they were without mobile phones, radio,
television or internet. They seemed the
most contented people we had ever met.
Maybe they have the answer and it is we
who should learn from them.
Football boots proved very
popular with childrenEssex Girl delivered a mix
of useful aid and donated
items to the islandersFinding safe routes through
largely uncharted waters
was a team effortTHE LEARNING CURVE