Dave Gerr - Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook-How to Design, Install, and Recognize Proper Systems in Boats

(Rick Simeone) #1
and outer pipe. The inner pipe carries the dry
exhaust gas from the manifold. The outer
pipe (the water jacket) is filled with engine
cooling water injected through an outside
tap. The advantage here is that the entire
riser exterior is relatively cool to the touch.
Also, it keeps less heat from radiating into the
engine compartment. Cooling water sprays
out into the exhaust gas proper through small
holes at the aft lower end of the edge of the
riser’s water jacket, where the water mixes
with and cools the hot gases directly.
There’s only one drawback—a potential
for corrosion inside the riser’s jacket itself.
For this reason, many commercial boats—
and hard-worked sportfishermen—are fitted
with dry exhaust risers. Here, the riser is
simply a pipe elbow with a tap on top aft to
inject cooling water directly into the gas flow
(Figure 7-5).(The injection should angle
down and aft, not at right angles to the riser
pipe, which could lead to splashback into the
turbo.) Even better, some manufacturers offer
water-injection rings that fit on the end of the
exhaust riser and disburse the injected water
evenly around the periphery of the exhaust
pipes.
Naturally, the hot riser has to be well
insulated (lagged) all around the outside to
prevent burns or chance of fire and to
reduce radiated heat. (See Chapter 9 for
more information on lagging.) Both water-
jacketed and dry risers work fine, and both
have their advocates. I lean toward the dry

riser—carefully insulated—as it seems to
have the least potential for long-range corro-
sion trouble.

Pyrometer Equals
Thermometer
Just aft of the water injection point is where
you should install an exhaust temperature
pyrometer.(Pyrometeris a fancy term for a
high-temperature thermometer.) This can be
rigged to a simple idiot light and alarm—or
better—-to a temperature indicator dial with
a programmable high-temperature alarm. In
either case, the idea is to give ample warning
if there is a reduction in cooling water. (A
pyrometer in the dry exhaust rise ahead of
the water injection is useful for tracking
engine load. It’s the best indicator of how
hard an engine is working.)
A water-flow sensor can be installed in
the injection line, just before entry into the ex-
haust riser. With the ignition on, it will sound
an alarm if the flow to the injection point
should stop. This is somewhat redundant with
the pyrometer, and the alarm inserted into the
exhaust system as described earlier; however,
it may be used in lieu of the pyrometer.

Metal’s Not So Hot
The metal parts of an exhaust system are
attacked by acids created in the fuel-water
mixture. Most stainless steels corrode in wet
exhausts. Inconel and Hastelloy C (nickel-
chrome-molybdenum alloys) are excellent,
though costly. Type 316L stainless (the L
stands for “low carbon”), which has some
molybdenum, is acceptable; 18-8, 302, and
304 stainless alloys should be avoided. Cop-
per, copper-nickel, nickel-copper, and Monel
can be used if high temperatures and stand-
ing water can be prevented, but copper and
copper alloys are for gasoline only—wet
exhaust diesel by-products (among them sul-
furic acid) attack the copper.
MANIFOLDCORROSIONDry exhaust risers, as
we’ve seen, can virtually eliminate corrosion
problems in the riser. One place where you
really can’t do much about corrosion in wet
exhaust systems is the water-jacketed ex-
haust manifold. Just like a water-jacketed
exhaust riser, the exhaust manifold is a

PART THREE: EXHAUST SYSTEMS


Figure 7-5. Water
injection
(Courtesy Vetus)

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