Dave Gerr - Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook-How to Design, Install, and Recognize Proper Systems in Boats

(Rick Simeone) #1
(locate the through-hull at least 2 feet or
0 .6 m below the waterline). Even this can’t
absolutely ensure that these problems won’t
occur. The deeper the shared sea suction and
the larger its diameter, the better.

Sea Chests
Probably the best way to get a large-diameter
inlet opening as deep as possible is by using a
sea chest. These are boxes or chambers built
onto the inside of the hull, with large open-
ings to the outside water. The openings are
covered with grates, and several sea valves or
seacocks are installed in the top or side of the
sea chest as convenient. Sea chests are not
required on any boat, but they offer a number
of advantages if used:


  • A sea chest gets the water inlet opening
    as far below the waterline as possible
    to maximize inlet head and minimize
    the chance of sucking in air when the
    boat rolls.

  • Its outside opening(s) has a total area
    far larger than all the suction pipes
    attached to it.

  • The grate at the sea chest’s opening (or
    openings) provides an added coarse
    filter element to protect internal
    plumbing.

    • With the grates let in flush, water flow-
      ing past the boat tends to keep debris
      from fouling the grate.

    • A sea chest in a box keel can be
      two-sided (open on both sides) and
      thus ensure full water flow even when
      a plastic bag is stuck against one side.

    • A sea chest centralizes inlet/suction
      plumbing fittings.




Figures 17-11 through 17-14illustrate a
two-sided sea chest in an aluminum motor

PART SIX: PLUMBING SYSTEMS WITH NOTES ON FIRE SUPPRESSION


Figure 17-10.
Self-cleaning sea
strainer (Courtesy
Groco)


Figure 17-11. Sea chest seen from inside a
motor cruiser
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