http://www.getwoodworking.com August 2019 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 57
Now sanded all-round, the best side and bull-
nose of the seat was chosen, taking account of
grain and quality of the join. The seat was then
cut to size and the cuts-outs for the rear uprights
made on the bandsaw, one of my most useful
machines. The seat was finally attached with
80mm screws and the stool was substantially
finished and surprisingly, considering it was
the first chair I have ever made, doesn’t wobble
(photo 16).
The final finish
The next decision was how to finish the chair.
I am a fan of a combination of good quality Danish
oil and water-based matt varnish. There is some
controversy about varnishing on top of Danish
oil, but it has always worked for me. I became
so disenchanted with the tedium of regular re-
oiling of kitchen worktops that last time I sanded
them, I oiled them and added a couple of coats
of matt varnish. It has worked perfectly for five
years (photo 17).
The original instructions that came with the
kitchen oak worktops recommended not sanding
with anything finer than 400 grit and applying
oil with wire wool. When I told the kitchen fitter
he thought I was mad, but it has always worked
for me. I applied three coats of oil to the chair
allowing 24 hours drying between each. The chair
was lightly hand-sanded with 400 grit abrasive14 Sander with adaptor/extractor17 Materials to finish chairs19 & 20 The completed bar chairs in situ
13 Oak board joined
16 Attaching legs to the seat with screws15 Mirka sanding sheet18 Final varnish
between each coat and two coats of Ronseal
water-based varnish were finally added with
sanding after the first and buffing after the
last (photo 18).
The offending folding chairs are finally
redundant and will be sold on eBay. The new
chairs are in place and ‘she who must be obeyed
is happy’ – result!