Classic Boat – August 2019

70 CLASSIC BOAT AUGUST 2019

SCILLIES BY LUGGER

and shoals the anchorage fell as flat as a millpond, in

time to take the ground with barely a perceptible bump.

Once she was happily settled, we wandered ashore safe

in the knowledge that she was going nowhere. We

wandered the island, sampled the ales at the local Fraggle

Rock bar, then returned to light the log burner, cook some

lovely island food and relax in comfort in our little bay.

SELECTING AN ANCHORAGE

As the wind forecast swung from SW to SSW, we looked

at the chart at the other obvious option, Green Porth on

Tresco. This gave better protection from the southerly

aspect, so on the early morning tide we weighed anchor,

set sail with just the mizzen set as a forelug and ran out

of New Grimsby Sound to round the north of Tresco.

The foot of Kettle Island was impressive as the swell

pounded in from the west, boiling around the rocks and

forcing us well wide before coming hard on the breeze

back into Old Grimsby Sound. Unable to hold a high

enough course to clear the Kitten, with limited room to

tack and with the rocks of Saint Helen’s Island and

Round Island reefs roaring, we counted our blessings

over the newly installed engine and motored the last leg

to Old Grimsby harbour.

Outside the bay at the visitors’ moorings there was

still a substantial swell running, but as we nosed in, past

the small-boat moorings and into the lee of the

Blockhouse it dropped away, leaving barely a swish on

the sand. We dropped anchor in the golden early

morning sunshine, watching it settle in a few metres of

gin-clear water. Then we set ourselves a stern anchor and

settled down to a mug of tea on the aft deck and a hearty

breakfast.

After exploring Tresco Abbey and the southern end of

the island a few days earlier, during this stop on Tresco

our thoughts turned to exploring the wilder northern tip

with its windswept and wild heather moor and castle

ruins. A shower (thankfully provided by the proprietors

of the New Inn) and managing to secure the last

available table for dinner at the Ruin Beach Café,

allowing us to tuck in to some wonderful food while

watching the flicker of our anchor light in the bay, made

the day perfect. We only later found out that we were

seated for dinner in the old gig boathouses, a fact I wish

we’d known at the time. We also bemused the staff with

questions as to whether the gigantic, distinctive painting

over the bar was, indeed, a James Dodds; to which we

never did find the answer.

The following morning, with light northerly breezes

and sunshine forecast for the day, we slipped through the

rocks while sipping morning coffee to the uninhabited

island of Tean, and the delightfully secluded anchorage

at East Porth. In the entrance of the bay we would not

dry out fully; however low water left only a foot or so of

water around her but would make the row to the beach

much shorter. We relaxed on deck, enjoying the company

of the seals and the seabirds, and listened to the roar of

the waves crashing on the outer reefs around Round

Island. A wander ashore let us explore this small but

very lovely island, and a distinct lack of footpath meant

Above: Veracity

at anchor in the

Cove. Insert:

Setting the

anchor light

before heading

ashore for dinner.

Below: Clipper

the whippet

enjoying the

sunny anchorage