72 CLASSIC BOAT AUGUST 2019SCILLIES BY LUGGER
VERACITY
LOA
32ft (9.8m)
BEAM
10ft 4in (3.1m)DRAUGHT
4ft 7in (1.4m)circumnavigating the eastern side of the island was, at
least in part, easier done on the great granite boulders of
the foreshore than wading through the almost waist-high
brambles and fern. The view from the top, of the myriad
rocks and islands surrounding us; the contrast of the
rough seas of the outer islands and benign, aquamarine
millpond on which Veracity sat, was made all the more
special by the seclusion and isolation brought by the
inclement and unpredictable autumn weather.
As the tide rose in the afternoon, we weighed anchor
and sailed slowly on a light breeze out of the anchorage,
ghosting along under Veracity’s imposing fore lugsaill,
south through Rascal’s and West Broad ledges, picking
out the dark rocks easily in the shallow water and bright
sunlight. As we reached the Crow Bar, the light wisps of
breeze were no longer sufficient to hold shape in her sails
against the southwesterly swell sweeping up the roads
and we motored the last mile or so to Hugh Town; we
were meeting an old friend in the Mermaid and wanted
to be there early. Keen to avoid a long row, we opted for
the drying visitor berths on the Quay but quickly realised
why they were deserted. The rolling swell, while certainly
not enough to be dangerous was enough to be very
uncomfortable lying alongside! A brief foray ashore and
we spotted a much better berth for a short overnight
stay, tucked around the corner, directly in front of the
Mermaid – we couldn’t have asked for a shorter trek.
With light winds still on the cards, after a brief
provisioning trip in Hugh Town, posting the inevitable2004
Mount’s
Bay lugger
Veracity is a 2004 Mount’s
Bay lugger that I bought
during a temporary moment
of insanity several years
back. I am refitting her
myself, prolonging the
agony some might say, and
have recently installed a new
engine (Beta 35), water
system, heads and electrics.
Sailing her means living with
more than a few temporary
fixes and working as I go,
including wiring the cabin
lights in, as dusk
approached somewhere
north of the Seven Stones!
At some point I believe she
will make a wonderful
traditional cruising vessel for
the Cornish coast with her
combination of robust
seaworthiness, shoal draft
versatility and Cornish
workboat charm.postcards and buying presents for my step-daughters, we
cast off and headed for the islands of Agnes and Gugh.
Thoughts of a pint in the Turk’s Head, combined with a
quick and easy start to our sail back to the mainland the
following morning, made the Cove seem like a perfect
last anchorage. Turning into the Cove, we knew we had
made a good choice; the little swell that remained
dropped away as we nosed into shallower water and the
anchorage was utterly deserted, despite the glorious,
warm sunshine and settled (at least in the short-term)
forecast. The afternoon was spent in the best possible
way, pootling slowly with nothing urgent and no
demands; a lovely state that we had managed frequently
over the last few days. We walked, painted and snoozed,
swam from the boat in ‘bracing’ waters, and ticked off a
few of those enjoyable maintenance jobs that always slip
too far down the priority list.
The next day dawned sunny with a building breeze.
We flew back across Mount’s Bay under jib, fore lug,
mizzen and mizzen staysail and reached Falmouth well
ahead of last orders to join friends at the Chainlocker, just
as the wind died. For a week’s English sailing it had been
wonderful; as good as any in the summer. An autumn
week with several gales lined up may not seem like an
ideal choice for a Scillies cruise; but with a capable
shoal-draught vessel, a little local knowledge, a pair of
beaching legs and a willingness to take what you are given,
there are still plenty of sheltered anchorages from
which to see the islands outside of the usual rat race.Above: Whoops!
Slight misjudging
of tide (dinghy
still tied up),
Holly is about to
lose the boots
and try again.
Insert: Aft cabin
a few days before
leaving, with the
new Beta engine