NZ Hunter – August 2019

(Ann) #1
Hey there
I am tossing up the 300WSM or 7mmRM. I am thinking the
300WSM might be a bit more versatile bush/long range. But I am also
wondering about suppressors. I saw that the DPT Magnum centerfire
over barrel modular with s/s blast baffle would be a good suppressor
but I am concerned there won't be enough recoil reduction. For these
cartridges would you fit a suppressor or brake? Do suppressors actually
take much recoil out?.
Thanks,

Thomas Hi Thomas,


In our opinion, the 7mm mag is more versatile at all ranges
for sure, and with less recoil. It has better long range ballistic
performance than the 300WSM. To get the same long range ballistic
performance as the 7mm Rem mag, you will need to go to a bigger
30cal than the 300WSM – at least the 300Win Mag or bigger. The
300WSM is theoretically better in terminal performance/killing power
than the 7mm for bigger stuff at close to medium ranges due to a
slightly larger diameter and heavier projectiles, but with a significant
recoil penalty. No, a can will not reduce the recoil anywhere near as
much as a muzzle brake. If recoil is the issue, then go with a brake,
but you must use hearing protection. If you don’t want to use plugs
or muffs, then go with a can but you’ll have to put up with the longer
recoil push you get with a can verses a brake Cheers,

Greg


Hi Greg,
I have had many boots, I have found many soles to become
super dangerous and slippery after 2 - 3 hrs walking in
river bed water. Vibram...in my opinion are the worst. I would love to
see an article on boot soles, what works on slippery rocks, or is there no

such sole? Also, an article on toes in boots, how to save them on long
long steep downhill treks of 3 - 5hrs. Or is this something we just have
to put up with?
Kind regards,

Keith Hi Keith,


Wet river rocks and tree roots are an issue with any boot
sole. The best thing is felt soled wading boots, but they are
useless the minute you get out of the river, and carry didymo too easily
as they take a long time to dry out. Next best is one of the soft soled
with optional steel cleated wading boots that have come out since felt
soles were banned for trout fishing. But again, none of these are really
made rigid enough for hill work.
I use Lowa Z8 boots for river work and they are still ok on the hills, but
not when carrying a heavy pack. Simply, there is no one boot ideal for
every situation. The closest to what I would call an all-round boot for
North and South Island from river valley to the tops of the mountains is
the Lowa Tibets.
As far as toes going downhill is concerned, if you buy a suitably rigid
boot in a big/long enough size then you shouldn’t have any issue. Most
people buy boots too small, they are a nice fit when walking on the flat
but don’t have enough toe room for going downhill with a pack on.
You need at least half an inch/12mm of free space in front of your toes,
and the boots need to fit well volume wise everywhere else so your
laces can ensure your foot doesn’t move around and most importantly
forward on the inner sole.
Cheers,
Greg

Q A

&


August / September 2019~ NZ HUNTER MAGAZINE 3

Hey there


I am tossing up the 300WSM or 7mmRM. I am thinking the
300WSM might be a bit more versatile bush/long range. But I am also
wondering about suppressors. I saw that the DPT Magnum centerfire
over barrel modular with s/s blast baffle would be a good suppressor
but I am concerned there won't be enough recoil reduction. For these
cartridges would you fit a suppressor or brake? Do suppressors actually
take much recoil out?.


Thanks,


Thomas Hi Thomas,


In our opinion, the 7mm mag is more versatile at all ranges
for sure, and with less recoil. It has better long range ballistic
performance than the 300WSM. To get the same long range ballistic
performance as the 7mm Rem mag, you will need to go to a bigger
30cal than the 300WSM – at least the 300Win Mag or bigger. The
300WSM is theoretically better in terminal performance/killing power
than the 7mm for bigger stuff at close to medium ranges due to a
slightly larger diameter and heavier projectiles, but with a significant
recoil penalty. No, a can will not reduce the recoil anywhere near as
much as a muzzle brake. If recoil is the issue, then go with a brake,
but you must use hearing protection. If you don’t want to use plugs
or muffs, then go with a can but you’ll have to put up with the longer
recoil push you get with a can verses a brake Cheers,


Greg


Hi Greg,


I have had many boots, I have found many soles to become
super dangerous and slippery after 2 - 3 hrs walking in
river bed water. Vibram...in my opinion are the worst. I would love to
see an article on boot soles, what works on slippery rocks, or is there no


such sole? Also, an article on toes in boots, how to save them on long
long steep downhill treks of 3 - 5hrs. Or is this something we just have
to put up with?
Kind regards,

Keith Hi Keith,


Wet river rocks and tree roots are an issue with any boot
sole. The best thing is felt soled wading boots, but they are
useless the minute you get out of the river, and carry didymo too easily
as they take a long time to dry out. Next best is one of the soft soled
with optional steel cleated wading boots that have come out since felt
soles were banned for trout fishing. But again, none of these are really
made rigid enough for hill work.
I use Lowa Z8 boots for river work and they are still ok on the hills, but
not when carrying a heavy pack. Simply, there is no one boot ideal for
every situation. The closest to what I would call an all-round boot for
North and South Island from river valley to the tops of the mountains is
the Lowa Tibets.
As far as toes going downhill is concerned, if you buy a suitably rigid
boot in a big/long enough size then you shouldn’t have any issue. Most
people buy boots too small, they are a nice fit when walking on the flat
but don’t have enough toe room for going downhill with a pack on.
You need at least half an inch/12mm of free space in front of your toes,
and the boots need to fit well volume wise everywhere else so your
laces can ensure your foot doesn’t move around and most importantly
forward on the inner sole.
Cheers,
Greg

Q A

&


August / September 2019~ NZ HUNTER MAGAZINE 3
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