CRUISINGW
e have always loved the
North Brittany coast for its
glorious rivers and craggy
inlets, its fantastic tidal range
and shifting seascapes, and
for the heady zest of the sea
which permeates the estuary channels. The south is made for lazy
summer holidays, with its warm turquoise water, white sandy
beaches and wonderful scattered islands with anchorages galore.
Between these very different areas, the wild west coast has a
special Breton character, pierced as it is by grand gulfs of ancient
granite cliffs. Pushing south from the English Channel through
the Chenal du Four, you emerge in a fl urry of overfalls off Pointe
de St Mathieu, a looming headland of legends with its semaphore
signal station, red-capped lighthouse and ruined monastery.
The vast expanse of water facing you is known as L’Iroise,
a romantic name which locals roll off their tongues in guttural
growls. The splendour of L’Iroise catches your breath, especially
on a clear day when you gaze across to the hard edge of Pointe
du Raz, whose race lies in wait. The shores around Toulinguet
Point look lonely and untamed, with more stone megaliths
on the hill behind Camaret.
To the east, Brest is almost invisible from seaward, glimpsed
though a tiny gap in the cliffs. Further south, the magnifi cent
Bay of Douarnenez is equally shy, its glorious strands and
two charming harbours shielded by the craggy headland of
La Chèvre. To those in the know, Brittany’s west coast is one
of France’s fi nest boating areas, so next time you’re passing,
don’t pass. Dive into Camaret or one of Brest’s snug marinas
and start exploring from there. You won’t regret it.Pointe de l’île Vierge
on the Crozon peninsulaACROSS TO CAMARET
Nine miles across L’Iroise from St Mathieu, the picturesque
fi shing port of Camaret is tucked behind Pointe du Grand
Gouin. The town stays hidden until you enter the bay, which is
fringed with low cliffs and golden beaches. Then you’ll see the
masts of visiting yachts behind Port Vauban breakwater. These
outer pontoons are snug in most weathers, with open views
around L’Iroise, or you can moor nearer town in Port du Nodic,
opposite the colourful waterfront on pontoon ‘A’. Here you are
in the hub of things, with shops, bars and restaurants to hand.
We usually moor at the outer marina, an easy stroll into
town along the sea wall. On the way you pass a 17th-century
pink stone fortress that glows in evening light. Beyond a sailors’
chapel, exquisite inside, is a drying hard where rotting hulls
are reminders of a once prosperous fi shing fl eet. Soon you reachPetit Minou
lighthouse, PlouzaneThe wild west coast has a special Breton
character, pierced as it is by grand
gulfs of ancient cliffs