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PhotoMORGAT COAST PATH
Halfway between the marina and Place d’Ys, a path climbs up
from Quai Kador to join a track leading seawards behind the
marina and then out onto a cliff path which trends south from
Pointe Morgat all the way down to Cap de la Chèvre. This is
one of the most spectacular coastal walks in Brittany, winding
behind the bays and small coves that make such enchanting
anchorages in quiet weather. The panorama across Douarnenez
Bay is fabulous and you can look down on anchored yachts and
the tourist launches that run close along this shore to visit
the famous caves – Les Grottes Marines de Morgat.
ISLANDS OFF L’IROISE
To me, the incredible tangle of islands west of L’Iroise give an
authentic fl avour of local life around this far tip of Brittany.
Île Molène has an amazing off-piste harbour on its north-east
side, surprisingly easy to reach from L’Aberildut in the Chenal
du Four. The much larger community of Ushant has good
visitors buoys on its south-west coast in Lampaul Bay, from
where you can easily land and explore the village. For forays
out to any of the islands, neap tides are best, when streams
are moderate and low water depths more generous.
However, you need careful passage planning before venturing
out to these Atlantic outposts, especially to Ushant. In fair
weather the simplest L’Iroise island to reach is Île de Sein, a
few miles seaward of the Raz de Sein tidal race.
ÎLE DE SEIN
The south side of L’Iroise is bounded by Île de Sein and 12 miles
of reefs. The Raz is the only navigable gap and while passing
crews may glance towards the low island and its tall lighthouse,
most continue on their way. Yet in quiet weather near slack,
Sein is quite easy to approach. At high water slack head for
the red tower marking the Chenal Oriental and follow the
marks towards the harbour, at low slack I prefer the northern
Chenal d’Ezaudi, which has a green outer buoy.
The harbour is enclosed by rocks and two long breakwaters.
Its outer part has some visitors’ moorings and depths at all
tides. When you turn off the engines and gaze around, it seems
incredible that a real community survives out here. The cottages
have very Breton pitched roofs and painted shutters, and there
are cafés with bright umbrellas. Out on Sein’s Atlantic edge
stands a solitary chapel. The main lighthouse sores 50m high
and at dusk its powerful beams turn slowly above the island,
fl ickering on cottage walls and nearby reefs. In settled weather
you can stay overnight, a memorable experience.RAZ DE SEIN
Despite its reputation the Raz de Sein is actually pretty
straightforward navigationally. From the north you pass about
midway between Pointe du Van and the small rocky hump of
Île Tévennec, with its distinctive stubby lighthouse. In hazy
visibility, Tévennec can look like a ship caught in the swirling
tidal cauldron of the Raz, yet in quiet weather it has a friendly
profi le which makes a useful signpost when you are aiming
for the gap from a distance.
From opposite Tévennec it’s not far to the two distinctive
light towers – La Vieille and La Plate. In quiet conditions I
usually aim to pass about half a mile west of La Plate, which
is a west cardinal, though you often see French yachts cutting
closer. If you miss slack water and the Raz is a bit boisterous,
you might fi nd easier conditions by curving further out- maybe up to a mile west of La Plate – before turning back
south-east to avoid getting too close to the rocky shoals off Île
de Sein. Having passed the two light-towers, you soon emerge
into quieter water and most boats either press on south-east
towards Pointe de Penmarc’h and the Bay of Bénodet, or turn
east to follow the coast along to Audierne.
CRUISINGLampaul Bay is on the
south-west coast of Ushantîle de Sein is surrounded
by 12 miles of reefsThe incredible tangle of islands west of L’Iroise give
an authentic flavour of local life