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BOAT LIFE
ILLUSTRATION: ADAM NICKEL
alker Bay in South Africa is a fine spot.
Southern right whales visit in winter
and spring to mate, calve and frolic –
simply drop anchor off Hermanus and
head over to Bientang’s Cave to enjoy a modest
lunch on its rocky terrace, where you will be
splashed by the marine giants as they glide merrily
by, almost within touching distance.
There’s fine shark diving here too, and many
intrepid travellers come to Walker Bay to spot
the “big five” of whale, shark, seal, penguin and
dolphin. The canniest of travellers, however,
come here to sip the equally spectacular wines.
Walker Bay’s cool, maritime climate is ideal for
producing silky smooth Pinot Noirs and gloriously
elegant Chardonnays, among the finest in the
world. Oh, and there are some pretty special
Sauvignon Blancs, Syrahs and Pinotages too.
Most of the wineries are congregated along the
verdant strip that runs just north of Hermanus,
which comprises the Hemel-en-Aarde (meaning
heaven and earth) Valley, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde
Valley and Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge.
Here you will find such tip-top producers as
Hamilton Russell, Bouchard Finlayson, Newton
Johnson and La Vierge. Further north is Bot River
(home to Luddite, Wildekrans and Barton) and,to
the east, Stanford, where you’ll find Springfontein,
Walker Bay Wines and Stanford Hills.
Winemakers here are innovative boundary-
pushers. Anthony Hamilton Russell, who did much
to put the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley on the map,
makes famously fine Pinot Noirs, up there with the
best that Burgundy has to offer. At his Southern
Right estate he also makes super Sauvignon Blancs.
2016 Springfontein Daredevils’ Drums
Juices Untamed Chardonnay
From the genius winemaker that is Tariro
Masayiti, a wild yeast, barrel-fermented
Chardonnay of jaw-dropping quality.
£20, privatecellar.co.uk
2016 Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal
Bonkers Pinot Noir/Nebbiolo/Mourvèdre/
Sangiovese/Barbera blend that somehow works
just beautifully. £24, leaandsandeman.co.uk
2015 Newton Johnson Family Vineyards
Pinot Noir
Not just one of the finest Pinots in South
Africa, but one of the finest in the world.
£24, laywheeler.com
2016 Ashbourne Pinotage
Proof that in the right hands, South Africa’s
signature grape can make truly astounding,
long-lived wines. £45, harveynichols.com
A whale
of a wine
Walker Bay’s marine charms are
legend – but its wines are making
a splash too, says Jonathan Ray
W
Julien Lagueste’s coffee tables and side tables are inspired by eroded stones, and their top colour
replicates the deep blue of the sea. Made in fine birch and topped with five layers of hand-cast resin,
they are the perfect main saloon centrepiece. Nesting side tables, from €1,100, theinvisiblecollection.com
Top tables
Just next door to Hamilton Russell
is Bouchard Finlayson, whose superb
wines include the majestic Hannibal,
an unheard-of blend of Sangiovese,
Nebbiolo, Mourvèdre, Shiraz, Pinot
Noir and Barbera. Crazy, but it works.
And over in Stanford, Tariro
Masayiti, formerly of Nederburg,
indulges in what he terms “extreme
winemaking”, using wild yeast, micro
and whole bunch fermentations with
anything from semi-dried Syrah to
Botrytis-affected Chenin Blanc. His
Daredevils’ Drums and Limestone
Rocks ranges, the latter named after
famous rock songs that he feels best
represent the wines themselves (Dark
Side of the Moon, Whole Lotta Love
etc), are sought-after stunners.
Whether it’s whales or wines,
Walker Bay is a wonder.