Photos 1&2:I started the detailing with the Dzus
fasteners on the engine covers. These were
rescribed using a syringe needle ‘disc’ and a 0.4 mm
drilled hole at the center.
Photo 3:Various sinkmarks at the fuselage and
wings surfaces were treated using Mr Surfacer 500.
Photos 4&5:The whole model was riveted as the
rivets were very visible in reality, being almost
everywhere, with the exception of the engine covers
and a couple of panels of the undersides. Careful
study of plans and photos was required, as well as
measuring in order for everything to be correct and
symmetrical. The tool I used for riveting is
Trumpeter’s riveter, and a thin styrene strip as a
guide.
Photos 6&7:The lowered flaps are from a
photoetched set by Eduard. They require careful
cutting, cleaning and thinning of the kit’s parts, and
also very careful gluing of the small fiddly PE parts.
Photo 8:I replaced the instrument panel with an
aftermarket part by Jahu. The individual instruments
were covered with maskol and the panel was coated
in matt varnish. The resulting ‘step’ enhanced the
appearance of the panel, following the removal of
the maskol.Photo 9:Almost the whole landing gear bays were
reconstructed. First, I removed the wheel well tops
in order to get a couple of millimetres in depth. This
part was replaced with thin styrene sheet and
various details were added using mainly copper wire
and styrene.Photos 10&11:The corrugated panels were
replicated using thin aluminium foil which I pressed
against the cockpit’s corrugated sidewalls using a
toothpick to emboss the appropriate shape.Photo 12: The walls of the bays were also replaced
with aluminium foil to replicate the hollow details of
the real aircraft and auxiliary equipment such as the
engine starting crank. Airfix provides the wheel well
doors in two parts instead of the normal three, so
they were replaced by the resin set available from
Quickboost.1 2 3
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