POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 258 After applying paste wax to the form, a bead of caulk is applied.
9 Immediately after caulking, running a fondant ball tool over all the seams
squeezes out excess caulk.
10 An almost-perfect caulk line.
11-12 Once the caulk has cured, you can trim away the excess.the form looks, it simplifi es things.
I cut a double miter at 15° back-
ward and 4.5° inward (to match the
outward and inward angle of the
waterfall, respectively). To attach
each side piece, I used one hand to
hold the side so it tilted inward off
the waterfall base, and the inside
seams were fl ush with the tabletop
side pieces, and used my other hand
to shoot a few dabs of hot glue un-
der the gap under the exterior edge
of the side piece that results when
the side is held in this position. I
could then use shims and more hot
glue to fi ll the exterior gap, so that it
wouldn’t give way during the pour.
The outside of the form isn’t pretty,
but it doesn’t need to be!
Note that I left the waterfall side
pieces a bit long when attaching
them, instead of trying to cut them
to the perfect length (and at the
perfect angle). This way, once the
waterfall sides were attached, I
could come back with a fl ush-cut
saw and use the base of the form as
a guide to cut them perfectly fl ush
and straight.
Sealing the Form
After building the form, it’s time to
seal it with 100% silicone caulk. I
use black caulk so it’s easier to see
(and correct) fl aws in your caulk
line—a must since the fi nal con-
crete piece shows every detail of
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