POPULARWOODWORKING.COM ■ 41
causing the top to lean.
To complete the battens, bore
and countersink for the screws that
mount the top. There are three #12
screws in each batten, one 1^3 / 4 "
screw in the center and one 1^1 / 4 "
screw at either end. The outer screw
holes are elongated slightly to allow
the top to expand and contract with
seasonal humidity changes.
To p
The top is 20" in diameter made from
two boards I edge-glued. Lay out the
circular shape of the top with a large
pair of dividers and cut it out.
Next, on the underside of the
top, use a straightedge aligned to
the center mark on the underside of
the top, and make a mark across the
grain the width of the top. Make a
parallel line 3" on either side of the
fi rst line. Assemble the mounting
block and battens, align the inside
edges of the battens with the layout
lines. Slide the assembly so the cen-
ter mark of the top is in the center
of the 1" hole of the top-mounting
block. With everything in place,
mark the screw locations to the top
and bore the pilot holes.
Mounting the Top
When the top is tilted vertically it
needs to be directly over a leg to
prevent it overbalancing the base. To
accomplish this, the pivot side of the
mounting block needs to be aligned
or “clocked” to the base. There are a
couple of ways to do this. One way is
to set the mounting block on the post
and eyeball the side with the round
tenons over one leg. The second way
is to install the block, and then on
a fl at surface lay the base assembly
on its side with the latch side of the
block down. This will align the tenon
side of the block with the single leg
sticking in the air. Make a witness
mark between the tenon and mount-
ing block once aligned.
The wedges need to be oriented
to put pressure along the grain of
the mounting block. Be sure to take
note of this when sawing the kerfs
in the round tenon to start the
wedges in.
After the glue has dried, saw the
remaining portion of the wedges off
and plane fl ush with the mounting
block face.
Assemble the battens to the block
and screw on the top.
To lock the top in the horizon-
tal position there’s a toggle that
mounts to the underside of the top.
Use a marking gauge set to^1 / 4 " and
mark all the way around the block.
On the underside measure in^5 / 8 "
from both ends and square the lines
across. Saw away the waste, then
round the center portion and ends
with a chisel or rasp. In the center
of the toggle bore and countersink
a hole for the pivot screw.
Finish
I like to use a fi nish that has a de-
cent water resistance on most any
kind of table I build. We have kids
and pets; sooner or later something
wet will end up on it. My favorite
fi nish for pieces like this is a wipe
on 50/50 Danish oil and satin poly
mix. Simply rag it on, wait 15 min-
utes, and wipe off the excess. Let it
dry for three days or so, scuff and
reapply. PW
Will Myers is a writer, teacher and peri-
od-furniture maker in North Carolina.
24 The block is at-
tached to the round
tenon with glue and
two wedges.
25 With the table
and base upside
down, place the
toggle about^1 / 4 "
into the center of
the mortise on the
mounting block.
Mark the screw
position on the top,
bore a pilot hole and
install the screw.
25
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