192
December 2019 | REDONLINE.CO.UKFrom above:
a Christmas tree
dazzles in
Sechseläutenplatz;
magical lights;
a luxurious
Junior Suite
at Baur au Lac.
Right: Zürich’s
markets sparkle
at night
T
here are a few traditions that signal the start of the
festive season for me: cinnamon-spiced mulled wine,
carol singing and, of course, Christmas markets. There’s
something gloriously Dickensian about buying tins of
gingerbread or glass baubles at little market stalls from
the people who actually make them. But this year, we are going
further afield for our purchases: all the way to Zürich, in fact.
Perched on the edge of Lake Zürich sits the beautiful Baur au
Lac; more grand villa than hotel, it oozes luxury and charm. The
175-year-old property was a favourite of Hollywood stars such
as Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren, and it
has such an air of old-world glamour that I almost expect to find
them all sitting on the terrace drinking espressos under the chic
striped awnings. Despite its luxurious looks, the Baur au Lac
is a very friendly and inviting place. Nothing is too much trouble
for the charming staff, who guide us up the grand staircase past
a huge Christmas tree to our beautiful rooftop suite (one of
119 rooms at the hotel), filling us in on Zürich’s hotspots and
suggesting cool places to eat and drink along the way. Their
recommendations include Baurs, the hotel’s recently opened brasserie
and bar. We are advised to ‘order a highball and people watch’.
Our opulent yet wonderfully tranquil suite is bigger than some of
the flats I’ve rented, with a separate sitting room and an enormous
marble bathroom complete with huge tub and wet room. Designed for
maximum comfort, it’s tempting to hole up with a movie and a good
book. However, the squishy sofas in the hotel’s candlelit lounge
are beckoning, so we head down for a nightcap. So far, so magical.
The next morning, after a breakfast of warm pastries and
thick, ‘proper’ hot chocolate overlooking the hotel’s beautiful
gardens, we wrap up and head straight to the Christmas market at
Sechseläutenplatz. It doesn’t disappoint, offering all the things we
hope to experience, including clusters of twinkly wooden cabins
alongside the beautiful lake (just a short walk from the hotel), and
it’s packed full of artisan gifts (perfect stocking fillers) and pretty
tree decorations. Stalls selling all manner of delicious treats tempt
us at every turn and we eat chocolate waffles and home-made fudge
with steaming mugs of spicy glühwein, while taking in the amazing
views of the lake and mountains. It’s certainly the most glamorous
of settings for a Christmas market. All that’s missing – on this
occasion – was a dusting of snow. OONAGH BRENNANTRIP NOTES A deluxe double room costs from
around £752 a night, based on two adults sharing
on a room-only basis. Visit bauraulac.ch/enCHRISTMAS MARKETS IN
ZÜRICH, SWITZERLAND
The stunning lounge
of Baur au Lac.