Los Angeles Times - 26.11.2019

(Nancy Kaufman) #1

S34


THE ENVELOPE LOS ANGELES TIMES TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2019


son to make happy was Elton. There’s no
point in doing something if he watched the
film and went, “Well, I never looked like
that” or “I don’t like this.” To me, what’s the
point of doing it?
[Elton] came to the studio, and I did a
show and tell, but he pretty much didn’t get
involved. He actually sent me a handwritten
letter and said how much he enjoyed the
costumes and thought they were incredible
and wished me luck in any possible poten-
tial awards.

In terms of costume on this film, I as-
sume it’s not just “more is good but more
plus more is best”?
Yes. This was one of those films where I
broke my own rule that the costumes should

not ever overtake the actual story. I was al-
lowed to break my rule, which was fun.
Sometimes the costumes were larger than
they might have been, but this was cast as a
musical fantasy. I think the louder the cos-
tume, the more they wanted it in the film.

I understand you did research at John’s
personal archive in London. What was
that experience like?
It’s basically a massive warehouse in
West London, with two big rooms that hold
all his stagewear. A lot has been auctioned
off for charity, but let’s just say there’s still a
lot there. The guy lovesshopping. I saw a lot
of iconic pieces: the Donald Duck outfit, the
Dodger suit. It’s all cataloged and photo-
graphed, with shoes and hats. The glasses
are kept somewhere else.

John’s Dodger Stadium outfit — the one
originally designed by Bob Mackie —
why did you choose to alter the piece
when you reproduced it?
As far as reproducing, it’s more fun de-
signing it yourself. So I wanted to change it
up a bit: I thought, how can I amp it up? I
wanted to make a crystal suit and so used
250K [Swarovski crystals]. It was really com-
plicated putting it together, and we only
completed it a day or two before shooting,
with Taron quite physical in those scenes.
That was a bit nerve-racking on those days.

Was the hot-orange devil suit with
the feathers and horned cap your own
fantasy?
Yes, absolutely. That outfit was pure fan-
tasy; it came completely out of my head. I

had a dream and then created it, and it was
the first actual outfit I designed for the
whole film. The devil suit was such an im-
portant costume, since it had to be in the
film so much and at such key moments. It
turns out Elton had worn [a devil’s outfit],
but it was so different I honestly didn’t real-
ize it until David Furnish pointed it out to
me three-fourths of the way through film-
ing. It worked out quite well.

The “Yellow Brick Road” costume was
delightful ...
Dexter told me Elton’s going to sing “Yel-
low Brick Road,” so I pulled the outfit to-
gether with something from every (“Wizard
of Oz”) character: He’s got the faux fur lion’s
coat, the straw hat, the Tin Man shirt. The
blue fabric was Dorothy’s blue. The color of
red crystal on the shoes and the jacket lapel
are the same color used for the original ruby
slippers.

His patched denim jacket was quite cool,
especially for anyone from
that era.
The denim jacket was really good fun. I’d
found an old ’70s denim jacket and had it re-
made and got all the patches and had them
put on — though they’re different from the
ones Elton had. It’s funny, so many people
like that jacket. Someone tagged me on Insta-
gram having re-created it with all the origi-
nal patches; someone else designed it for a
pet cat [laughs]. I think the original jacket
was sewn by a band member’s girlfriend.
Originally, the one thing that Taron
really wanted from the film was the denim
jacket. I made sure that Paramount sent it to
him. I think he wore it to the world pre-
miere.

John seems to use costume as character
in a different way than other similar-era
music icons such as Elvis and David
Bowie. Would you agree?
I heard once he said he’d put on his costume
20-30 minutes before a show and then he’d
become Elton John, the performer. The
other musicians you mentioned seemed to
express their real inner selves more. If you
look at some of the stuff he wore, it was al-
most that he hid behind it. This character, I
think he’s shy but also very extroverted. It’s
quite fascinating. But at the end of the day I
think Elton just likes dressing up, to be hon-
est with you. 8

THE DODGERS
SUITwas an amped-
up version of the
original, but the devil
costume (flanked by
Day and Taron
Egerton, also below
left, in the denim
jacket) was all Day.

Gavin BondParamount Pictures David ApplebyParamount Pictures

Paramount Pictures

[‘Rocketman,’from S32]
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