The Globe and Mail - 02.11.2019

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2019 | THEGLOBEANDMAIL O P7

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PURSUITS|

W

hen you consider any of the pre-

sumed classic food and wine pair-

ings – oysters and Chablis, Stilton

cheese and Port or steak and cabernet sau-

vignon – they’re only perfect matches if

you like both sides of the equation.

If you enjoy a strict plant-based or vegan

diet, all are non-starters – possibly on both

the food and wine sides. While it might

come as a shock given it’s a product of

grapes, wine isn’t necessarily vegan-

friendly.

“So many people don’t understand that

not all wines are suitable for vegans,” says

Jennifer Huether, a master sommelier

based in Toronto who has been taking an

active interest in vegan wine pairings over

the past few years.

Huether explains for many being vegan

isn’t a diet, it’s a lifestyle. It’s not merely an

issue about what they ingest, but a sincere

belief that humans shouldn’t exploit or

harm animals in any fashion. “Beyond the

animal products that might be used in the

clarification of wine, there’s also the adhe-

sives used in the labelling process to con-

sider or whether animals, like horses or

sheep, are employed in the vineyard work.”

The principle of winemaking, having

yeast convert the sugar in grape juice to al-

cohol, isn’t a concern for vegans. The issue

comes up when winemakers look to clarify

or “fine” their finished wine to give them

that clear, bright, jewel-like clarity.

Binding agents or clarifiers are used to

attract suspended solids (proteins, tannins

and other molecules) left over after fer-

mentation that make the wine hazy and

possibly taste bitter. The most common

fining agents are derived from casein (milk

protein), albumin (egg whites) or animal

proteins (gelatin or isinglass, the latter be-

ing a fish by-product).

Because three of the most traditional

fining agents are common allergens, you

may have noticed the warning “may con-

tain milk, eggs or fish” on the back label of

some international wines, notably ones

from Australia or New Zealand. Canadian

winemakers aren’t required to specify

which processing aids were used.

As part of her work with Toronto-based

promoter and writer Priya Rao on an ongo-

ing series of events that celebrate the art of

pairing vegan wines and foods, Heuther

has been actively combing what little ma-

terial is available.

“Just because you eat a plant-based

diet, doesn’t mean you don’t like wine,”

she says. “I found it fascinating that no one

is really addressing this subject.”

Huether says she’s been looking to

identify food and wine pairings that create

the elevated experience that someone

would experience with, say, a great bottle

of Bordeaux and a lamb dish.

“We’re still discovering as we go,” she

says. “With vegan dishes you have differ-

ent sugar levels, spices and umami levels,

it’s a fun challenge.”

Most of successes thus far have been

recipe based, but Heuther is happy to

share some guiding principles for anyone

looking to get the most of a vegan wine

and food pairing. She and Rao are hoping

to have a vegan food and wine pairing e-

book compiled for the coming holiday

season. More information is available at

thesocialherbivore.co.

GO GAMAY

Simple, fruity and enjoyable Beaujolais

tends to work with a wide variety of vegan

dishes. “The high acidity, lower tannins

and lighter flavours work with so much,”

she says.

COCONUT AND RIESLING

The taste of a coconut cashew brie-style

cheese with an off-dry riesling helped un-

lock a flavour combination that is working

across a spectrum of dishes. “It’s to die

for,” Heuther says.

BEWARE BIG REDS

“It’s a struggle to find good matches for

big, tannic red wines,” she says. “Using

charring or grilling as a cooking method

and flavourful marinades with salt and

umami helps, but that style of wine is the

trickiest challenge.”

The wines recommended this week are

all vegan-friendly as professed by the pro-

ducers. Outside of Karlo Estate in Onta-

rio’s Prince Edward County, nogoverning

body has confirmed these claims. Many

wine producers don’t use animal-derived

products, but fail to mention it. If you have

any concerns about how your favourite

winery makes its wine, it’s best to get in

touch and see what they have to say.

CAVE SPRING CELLARS RIESLING 2017

(CANADA)

SCORE:90PRICE:$15.95

Made in Cave Spring’s crowd-pleasing

house style, this refreshing riesling is

marked by mouthwatering sweet and

sour citrus flavours. Zesty with a ba-

lancing sweetness, it makes a terrific

aperitif or food-friendly (and vegan-

friendly) dining companion. Availa-

ble in Ontario at the above price,

$17.99 in Manitoba, direct shipping to

Alberta or British Columbia through

cavespring.ca.

DOMAINE BOUSQUET MALBEC 2018

(ARGENTINA)

SCORE:88PRICE:$13.95

Here’s an organic and vegan-friendly

malbec from Tupungato in the premi-

um growing region of the Uco Valley.

This easy to appreciate dry red offers a

mix of berry and spice notes, with a

fresh and lively character. It’s a solid

value that’s ready to enjoy during the

next year or two. Available in Ontario

at the above price, $16.04 in Manitoba.

FORT BERENS ESTATE WINERY

CHARDONNAY 2018 (CANADA)

SCORE:88PRICE:$19.99

Fort Berens co-founder Rolf de Bruin

explains the winery in Lillooet doesn’t

use animal products in the vineyard or

winery operations. Produced mostly

from estate-grown fruit that’s blended

with purchased chardonnay, this ripe

and refreshing white is nicely bal-

anced. Drink now. Available direct

from the winery through fortberen-

s.ca

KARLO ESTATES MALBEC ESTATE 2017

(CANADA)

SCORE:90PRICE:$39

Karlo Estates was the first winery to

certified by VegeCert, a Canadian body

that conducts audits to confirm that

production methods and supplies are

vegan-friendly. The Prince Edward

County, Ont., winery produces a com-

pelling range of estate-grown wines,

including this distinctive malbec that

reveals a sweet core of dark fruit that

gains interest from herbal, earthy and

spice notes. Available direct from the

winery through karloestates.com

YALUMBA THE STRAPPER 2016

(AUSTRALIA)

SCORE:91PRICE:$19.95

This juicy and generous Barossa red is

a winning blend of grenache, shiraz

and mataro (a.k.a. mourvedre). The

result is a fresh and flavourful charac-

ter that displays a pleasant array of

mint, herbal and ripe red fruit notes.

Vegan friendly. Available in Ontario at

the above price, $22.11 in Manitoba,

various prices in Alberta. The similar-

ly enjoyable 2015 vintage is $24.99 in

British Columbia.

YALUMBA Y SERIES VIOGNIER 2018

(AUSTRALIA)

SCORE:89PRICE:$14.95

Yalumba has always had a special af-

finity for the viognier grape, but in re-

cent years has outdone itself. This is

an exciting version of the entry level

Y Series label, with succulent fruit

and that exotic lemongrass and floral

charge you hope to find in top-quality

expressions. Vegan-friendly. Availa-

ble in Ontario at the above price,

$17.49 in British Columbia, $18.99 in

Saskatchewan, $14.95 in Quebec and

various prices in Alberta.

WENTE MORNING FOG CHARDONNAY

2017 (UNITED STATES)

SCORE:88PRICE:$19.95

Appealing fruity and fragrant, Wente

Morning Fog chardonnay is made in a

crowd-pleasing style. The oak spice

flavours are nicely integrated into the

mix of floral, cream and citrusy notes.

Vegan friendly. Available in Ontario at

the above price, $19.49 in Manitoba,

various prices in Alberta and British

Columbia.

SpecialtoTheGlobeandMail

Karlo Estates,

seen here in

Ontario’s Prince

Edward County, is

the first winery to

be certified by

VegeCert as

vegan-friendly.

Messageinabottle

Findingvegan-friendlywinesisn’taseasyasyou’dthink,norispairingthem.Fortunately,thatischanging

CHRISTOPHER

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