Harper\'s Bazaar USA - 12.2019

IN THE PAST FEW YEARS, the

beauty sphere has exploded with inno-

vation. There’s been a surge in at-home

devices, plus in-office treatments like

Emsculpt and CoolTone that build

muscle (no gym required). And that’s

just the tip of the iceberg, says New York

plastic surgeon Andrew Jacono, M.D.

“Aesthetic advancements are being cre-

ated daily,” he says. Here’s a sneak peek.

BETTER INJECTABLES While

Botox and similar products tend to

last for a few months, pharma giant

Allergan, which recently acquired

biotech company Bonti, is working

on a fast-acting and quick-vanishing,

wrinkle-smoothing injectable. Results

appear within 24 hours (as opposed

to a few days), and the effect lasts for

up to four weeks (perfect for those

who just want to test the waters).

At the other end of the spectrum,

biotech company Revance is devel-

oping Daxi, a neuromodulator that’s

poised to last for six months thanks

to a proprietary peptide. “They con-

ducted huge clinical trials, and the data

is really good,” says Miami dermatolo-

gist Joely Kaufman, M.D. “Derms are

also experimenting with new versions

of Botox, as well as with higher con-

centrations of the existing drug, to

achieve longer-lasting results,” says

Robert Anolik, M.D., a dermatolo-

gist at Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York. “If clinical trials

are successful, I’d expect new versions by 2021, maybe even sooner.”

THE GLOW SHOT Hyaluronic acid fillers have been used for decades

to add volume, but their potential is far greater, says Carrie Strom,

senior vice president of U.S. medical aesthetics at Allergan. Volite—

presently available in the U.K.—can actually enhance your skin qual-

ity. “Injected in tiny droplets, it improves fine lines, texture, and

luminosity,” says Kaufman. She believes that it could hit the States in

a few years once the trials are completed.

LASER-FOCUSED SOLUTIONS While lasers have gotten more

advanced, some issues are still a challenge, like eliminating peach fuzz and

white or red hair. Another hurdle? Zeroing in on oil glands to control

acne. Relief is in sight, says Anolik. “Researchers are developing topical

serums with nanoparticles that can sink

into pores, and from there the lasers

can target them,” he says. If a particle

is close enough to the root of a strand

of fine hair or if it’s sitting in an oil

gland, laser treatments will become a

whole lot more effective.

FIRMER SKIN Short of a face-lift,

“most skin-tightening methods involve

delivering heat deep below the sur-

face, which can trigger collagen pro-

duction,” says Anolik. Stay tuned for a

new (albeit bizarre-sounding) option.

“Some researchers are experimenting

with what’s being called dermal micro-

coring, in which tiny fragments of skin

are removed throughout the surface—

without leaving a scar,” he explains. In

the meantime, firming (and notoriously

painful) procedures like Ultherapy and

Infini radio frequency microneedling

are getting better every day, “using lower

ultrasound energies with more passes,

which are proving to be more effective

and tolerable,” Anolik says.

SHARPER ANGLES The lower

face has come into renewed focus, says

Jacono: “People are seeing more candid

photos of themselves, and they aren’t

happy with their jawline.” While some

docs are injecting filler in the jaw area,

Jacono has been increasingly busy on

another, more permanent solution.

“Bespoke chin implants—it’s one of the most amazing technological

breakthroughs in plastic surgery,” he says. “If you’re spending $6,000 to

$10,000 a year on fillers to build out your chin, an implant makes more

sense.” The cost is $20,000, for a chin that won’t change much with age.

SMARTER SKIN CARE “Personalized products have been a trend

for a long time, but we’re in a key moment,” says Guive Balooch, global

vice president of the L’Oréal Technology Incubator. “Data and technology

are enhancing what’s possible.” Specifically, he’s working on emerging

technology that can assess your skin, the environment’s impact on it, and

how your needs will evolve. “That way, you’ll know which ingredients to

use and when.” Though virtual consultations have been unreliable in the

past, “the iPhone 11’s new camera is likely to capture better information,

which empowers the customer.” Balooch sees the vast potential for both

L’Oréal’s existing brands and those that specialize in custom formulas. ■

BEAUTY’S NEXT

THINGS

BIG

154

BE AU TY

From products to procedures, experts

predict the most exciting new breakthroughs in

2020 and beyond. By Jessica Matlin

FERNANDO GOMEZ/TRUNK ARCHIVE