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ACIDS, chemica l ex folia nts t hat slough away dead cells to
reveal new skin. They are commonly separated into alpha
and beta hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs). ‘AHAs are
water-soluble so they work on the superficial skin layers.
The most frequently used AHAs are lactic acid and glycolic
acid: the former has hydrating benefits, while the latter can
penetrate deeper, so it works well for treating pigmentation,
fine lines and wrinkles,’ says the skin specialist Dr Anita
Sturnham. ‘BHA, also known as salicylic acid, is fat-soluble,
allowing it to penetrate the pores, where it works to detoxify,
reduce excessive oil and eliminate congestion. BHA also has
skin-calming properties, so is gentle enough for sensitive types.’
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BAKUCHIOL, a naturally
occurring compound
found in the seeds
of the babchi plant, which has been
seen to stimulate the production
of collagen. ‘Its results have been
compared to those of vitamin A,
revered as the gold-standard
ingredient for exfoliation, skin
strengthening and pigmentation,’
says the aesthetician Dija Ayodele.
‘However, vitamin A can be irritating
and should not be used during
pregnancy or while breastfeeding.
Bakuchiol has been shown to be a
more stable and tolerable alternative.’
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COLLAGEN, the most abundant protein
in the body. It plays an integral
role in the elasticity and structure
of the skin, but naturally depletes as
we age, causing fine lines and
w r ink les to appea r. A s colla gen is a
relatively large molecule, it cannot be
replenished via topical application,
a s it is unable to penetrate t he
epidermis. Instead, many brands use
collagen peptides (explained in more
detail under P for Peptides) to
stimulate the skin’s own production.
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DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED. It may
sound like an authoritative claim
but it is not in fact a legally defined
term. ‘In general, it means a
product has been tested on the
skin. The involvement of a doctor
or dermatologist is not essential,
although protocols may be
reviewed by a medically qualified
person,’ says Dr Emma Meredith,
the director-general of the
Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery
Association. Instead, look for
specific claims about a product’s
effectiveness, which must be
substantiated by robust evidence.
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EMOLLIENTS, the moisturising agents that form a physical barrier on your skin to prevent
water loss. Examples include plant oils, butters and fatty acids.
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FATS, including ceramides and lipids. They act as building blocks in the
outermost layer of the skin, keeping it hydrated and protecting against
pollution and bacteria. ‘Ceramide levels drop at a frightening rate after
the age of 30, so it is crucial to replenish them in order to ensure optimum
skin function,’ says the dermatologist Dr Dendy Engelman.
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