9 November/10 November 2019 ★ † FT Weekend 13Magnus Carlsen suffered the
worst defeat of his career
last week as Norway’s world
champion was crushed by
Wesley So of the US in the
first official title contest in
Fischer Random. So won the
final by a massive 13.5-2.5, a
margin exaggerated by the
scoring system.
Fischer Random means
random piece placings on
the back row and was
devised 25 years ago by
Bobby Fischer to combat
book openings, which havesince swollen much further
due to online databases. It
has 960 possible starting
positions, and is fast gaining
popularity amonggrand-
masters. There arefar fewer
draws than in classical chess.
Carlsen had beaten his old
rival Fabiano Caruana in the
semi-final, but then his play
sharply deteriorated in an
echo of his failure in a recent
speed event at St Louis. So’s
achievement will be limited,
though.He is not among the
eight candidates who willplay in 2020 to decide
Carlsen’s next challenger.
England, who won silver
behind Russia at the world
team championship inMarch, scored another fine
result last weekwith bronze
behind Russia and Ukraine
at the European teams in
Batumi, Georgia.
2340
Daniil Dubov v Rasmus
Svane, Russia v Germany,
European teams 2019.
White (to play) sacrificed a
rook to drive the black king
across the board in what has
been nominated as ‘Game of
the Year’. Can you find
White’s only move to win?
Solution, back page1.
2345678A B C D E F G HDiversions
POLYMATH ,047 SET BY PEDROCK 1
CHESS EONARD BARDENL
CROSSWORD 6,320 SET BY MUDD 1
Polymath 1,047 Set by Pedrock
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1 William Hague’s middle
name (9)
6 John, c1580-c1625, author of
the Duchess of Malfi (7)
10 British animated science
fiction TV film (12,3,2)
11 Greek philosopher who died
c500BC, one of the great
Milesian thinkers (10)
12 Male professional dancing
partner (6)
14 alvador Felipe Jacinto ---- y S
Domènech, Spanish artist (4)
15 Name of an old and a new
market in London (12)
17 orry for removing rubbish L
(8)
18 emale who sells beauty, F
household and personal care
items door-to-door (4,4)
20 Fine fabric of silk or similar
material (5-2-5)
21 Progenitor of the human
race according to Genesis (4)
24 ormally accuse of a crime F
(6)
25 Massive and undifferentiated
throughout (10)
27 “Dedicated ....”’, 1966 hit for
the Kinks (8,2,7)
28 One of the calcified layers of
which bone is formed (7)
29 Hermaphrodite, having
organs of both sexes (9)DOWN
1 Continental part of Denmark
(7)
2 Astronomical instrument
devised to demonstrate
rotation of the earth (9,8)
3 Of ancient Scandinavian
poems (6)
4 Janet, journalist and
broadcaster (6-6)
5 Meat, usually lamb, cut off
the bone and rolled (8)
6 Dry watercourse (4)
7 People from Portuguese-
speaking South American
country (10)
8 Evergreen carol (3,5,3,3,3)
9 In a disorderly or lawless
way (9)
13 Having feet divided like an
ox or sheep (6-6)
16 Nocturnal bird with long
quivering cry (7,3)
17 Having a tendency to give a
false impression (9)
19 Byzantine empress
c500-c548 wife of Justinian I
(8)
22 Ancient city in north-east
Peloponnesus (7)
23 Complete or ignominious
failure (6)
26 One or all of four ancient
holy Hindu books (4)The first correct entry drawn
on Wednesday November 20
wins a copy of The Chambers
Dictionary. Entries should be
addressed to Polymath No
1,047, Weekend FT, 1 Friday
Street London EC4M 9BT.
Solution and winner’s name on
November 23.
The 13th edition (2014) retains the much-loved features of The Cham-
bers Dictionary, including the unique quirky definitions for certain words.
There are more than 1,000 new words and meanings, and there is also a
new Word Lover’s Ramble, showing how English words and definitions
have changed over the history of the dictionary.Crossword 16,320 Set by Mudd
Solution 16,319 Solution 16,308
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1 Sewer underground? Shut it
(4,4)
5 Vitality, special power slowing
(6)
10 Club personnel (5)
11 More than one merchant
butcher mastered profession,
finally (9)
12 Ace sent in to work – more
than one occupation? (9)
13 Some investment back in
Bergen or Kristiansand? (5)
14 “Beer please”, did German say?
(6)
15 Appealing, be successful
occasionally? (7)
18 Not at work, employee rude (7)
20 Cockatoo perhaps regarding
large bird (6)
22 Cramped under the table (5)
24 erson trying to win prizes, P
Spooner’s excited gambler? (9)
25 Mark house somewhere in
Panama (9)
26 Hide conspiracy, heading for
trial (5)
27 ental impossible, one seen in R
a rut? (6)
28 ale boy drinking last of P
mescal in careless manner (8)DOWN
1 Money once in Europe set
aside (6)
2 Obvious fit, someone bringing
a case (9)
3 The fool captured in citadel
free, I suspect (8,7)
4 More amusing, I go on tours (7)
6 Instrument amplifying voice,
reaching top volume in harlot
(8,7)
7 Don Juan, setter wearing small
jumper (5)
8 One leaving worried kid in tree
messed around (8)
9 Capital then is now cooked up?
(6)
16 Beginning of operation on very
difficult terrain, exercise too
much (9)
17 Noble sting, something of
value lifted (8)
19 Spot last of old fruit (6)
20 Flower – part of it briefly taken
round university (7)
21 Rather cute (6)
23 Compass shows mother in boat
going north (5)Copies of The Meaning of Everything: The
Story of the Oxford English Dictionary by Simon
Winchester, published by Oxford University Press,
will be awarded to the senders of the first three
correct entries opened on Wednesday November- Entries marked Crossword 16,320 on the
envelope, should be sent to Weekend FT, 1 Friday
Street, London EC4M 9BT. Solution on November
Jotter padWINNERS
Crossword 16,308: hris Coleman, Cheltenham, England;C
Mark Huggins, Buckinghamshire, England;
Neil Woolhouse, Wakefield, EnglandPolymath 1,045: ane Rowe, Cheshire, EnglandJBooks
N
othing confounds a case
of moral outrage like a will-
ing victim.
In painter Celia Paul’s
short, episodic memoir,
which centres on her affair with Lucian
Freud, the older artist emerges as an
archetypal monster — emotionally abu-
sive, manipulative, ruthlessly self-serv-
ing. So far, so unsurprising. It is Paul’s
part in their 10-year liaison that sends
our feelings on a rollercoaster.
Self-Portraitopens with an account of
Freud’s seduction of Paul, when she was
an 18-year-oldstudentand hea highly
successful artist of 55. Then she sets the
scene: the emotional landscape that was
such fertile ground for his conquest of
her. The middle of five daughters of a
religious couple — her father was a
priest — she craved attention to the
extent that when her younger sister was
born, she stopped eating. The family left
India, where her father was working at a
mission, on her diagnosis of leukaemia:
they ascribed her miraculous cure ot
their fervent prayers. But, she writes, “I
knew I had brought the illness on myself
in order to get my mother’s attention. I
succeeded. My mother gave me her
devotion for the rest of her life.”
In a dreary boarding school backin
England, art is a refuge. A teacher, rec-
ognising her talent, writes to Laurence
Gowing at the Slade; Paul gets admitted
to theLondon art school at just 16.
In London, utterly green, she falls vic-
tim to “obsessions and loneliness”. And
poverty. “I have Branston pickle for my
supper. I’m so hungry.”
Freud, meanwhile, drives a Bentley;
she sits on his knee as he drops huge
sums on his gambling habit; when he
buys her a meal, she details the mounds
of mashed potato, the gleaming gravy, in
a letter to her sister Kate.ness Freud provides. Welook in vain for
anger or defiance, or a self-worth that
repudiates his treatment of her: as often
with this book, we are torn between fury
on her behalf and fury at her complicity.
Then comes the baby. When Paul’s
son Frank is born, she loves him, she
says, overwhelmingly — but when he is
three weeks old, she leaves him with her
motherto returnto her art. And to
Freud. She writes of the three-way bat-
tle between her baby, her lover and her
calling to art — a fight, she says, that all
female artists have to face.
Yet her relationship with Freud is
more frayed than ever, and when she
finally confronts the factof his other
affairs, she finds the strength to leave
him. It had been 10 years.
Running through the book are Paul’s
thoughts on art, especially the relation-
ship between artist and sitter, in which
the power balance clearly fascinates her.
When she modelled for Freud, she used
to cry: she felt exposed by his cold and
analysing eye. She writes at length about
her mother,whose ageing body she
draws and paints again and again.
As Paul describes watching her eld-
erly mother toiling up the 80 stairs to
theflat overlooking the British Museumthat Freud bought for her (and where
she still lives), we realise again that the
sliver of ice in many artists’ hearts si
hers almost as much as Freud’s. This
book has a prologue that is a sort of self-
justification: about the artist’s need for
space and privacy, which meant that
Frank could not live with her, that her
husband to this day does not have a key
to her flat.Self-Portrait eems a long-s
delayed correction of that power bal-
ance: she is her own sitter now; Freud
will appear as a part of her life, rather
than she being perpetually a part of his.
In this last aim, I’m not sure she suc-
ceeds. Even so, the book takes on a sig-
nificance beyond a personal story that is
oftenpathetic and sometimes rubby. Itg
puts yet another twist to our view of
Freud: a man of his time, perhaps, but
(we think) not of our own. And it turns
into a sort of myth about the misuse of
fame and the male ego, about the strug-
gles faced by creative women, about the
body in all its guises. Like a myth, it
unfolds with confusions and contradic-
tions, a terrible inevitability and many,
many discomfiting truths.Jan Dalley is the FT’s arts editorSelf-Portrait
by Celia Paul
Jonathan Cape £20
216 pagesCelia Paul in her London
studio in 2016 —Gautier DeblondeThe artist as victim
an DalleyJ onan uncomfortable memoir of life with Lucian Freud
Back to the rind
How artisan cheese makers have led the way in the rebirth of
Britain’s much-maligned food culture. ByWendell SteavensonF
or years I have sought to per-
suade people that food is
much more than recipes and
restaurants, that it is not just
the social glue that gathers
people around a table. It is the great uni-
versal that connects agriculture and cli-
mate to trade and exchange to tradi-
tions and cultures to identity and poli-
tics. So I was thrilled to read Ned
Palmer’sA Cheesemonger’s History of the
British Isles, a welcome addition to the
canon of food-centric histories so mem-
orably begun with Mark Kurlansky’s
Cod 1997). How we feed ourselves can(
tell us as much about who we are and
where we came from as the successions
of monarchs and republics.
Palmer is both a cheesemonger and a
cheese historian — encyclopedic, foren-
sic and geekily obsessed with the stuff.
He writes in a jollypatter: warm, wry
and deliciously digressive. He threads a
chronology of cheese from the unnamed
Neolithic goat-herd in the Zagros Moun-
tains (in what is now the high border-
lands between Turkey, Iran and Iraq)
who first noticed an odd coagulation of
sour milk and realised it was delicious,
through Roman cheese production that
fed armies, monks of the Middle Ages,
the agricultural development of enclo-
sures and animal husbandry and the
Victorian technologies of mechanis-
ation and railway transport.
By turning the lactose into lactic acid,
our ancestors found away to make milk
more digestible, as well as easier to pre-
serve. Nutritious and transportable,
cheese was more than a nibble. It was —
as Palmer shows, drawing on Roman
recipes, medieval manuscripts and par-
ish records — soldier’s pay, a farmer’sa
tithe, a landowner’s tax. Along the way,
he explains how bacteria, yeasts and
fungi can be managed with tempera-
ture, timing, salt and acidity levels, to
create different textures and tastes.Fresh curd cheese, rind-washed, mould
injected — methods and techniques
changed over time. Each chapter
focuses on a different British cheese
chosen to represent this progression.
What comes through acutely is how
much of Britain’s cheesemaking tradi-
tion was lost in the 20th century. The
move to pasteurisation, the consolid-
ation of small farms, Milk Marketing
Board egulations and government con-r
trol of the food supply during the second
world war — which in effect stopped the
manufacture of any cheese not hard
enough to be cut neatly into rations—
meant that Britain went from having
1,000-plus farmers producing cheese in
1939 to just 62 by the mid-1970s.
Then came arenaissance. In the late
1970s, inspired by the wholefood move-
ment, Nicholas Saunders founded Lon-
don’s Neal’s Yard Dairy and, together
with Patrick Rance, a cheesemonger
andwriter,sponsored nd championeda
a new generation of fledgling cheese
makers. Today there are more than 300
independent British cheese makers.
Palmer is part of thisartisan move-
ment. He took his first bite of Caerphilly
at London’s Borough Market in 2000,
went to work for Neal’s Yard Dairy and
got to know many of this new breed of
cheesemakers. He writes about cheese
with a connoisseurs’ passion, celebrat-
ing, for example, the “malty digestive
biscuit, Marmite and bubblegum” taste
of a superior Stilton.
For all the fun of the potted histories
of the Norman invasion or the Black
Death, the book is most alive when
Palmer is describing the art of cheese
making: cutting the fragile curds, care-
fully ladling, turning and ripening.
“That such extinct traditions of cheese
making can be brought back to life is a
joyful thing,” he writes.No less exciting
is the future; cheese makers are taking
techniques from around the world and
applying them to different terroirs to
create new “postmodern” cheeses.
This is part of a broader trend. “A sim-
ilar renaissance has been taking place
with all sorts of food,” writes Palmer.
From craft brewing to bean-to-bar choc-
olate making, we are finally emerging
from a century of industrialised homo-
genisation and paying attention to prov-
enance and process and the healthiness
and ethics of our food supply chains.
And British cheese is at the vanguard.A
Cheesemonger’s
History of the
British Isles
by Ned Palmer
Profile £16.99
384 pagesFreud did not give her his
phone number — she had
to wait at home in case herang. It could be a week
And there’s the waiting. She writes to
Kate of “eyeing the telephone receiver... like a hungry dog eyeing a bone”.
Freud did not give her his phone
number; she had to wait in, in case he
rang (he would be angry if she was out
and missed his call). It could be a week.
Then they would have a couple of hours
together, then the waiting would begin
again. At the Slade, fellow students gos-
sip endlessly about his other women.
Paul also includes drawings and paint-
ings,poems and quotes from her teenage
diaries: full of longing and aching pain,
pathetic clinging to the shreds of happi-
As much as good defenders
will resist, sometimes it is
necessary to involve them in
your plans. However, you
must ensure they have no
wriggle-room...
North-South bid simply to
game. West led Q♣ nda
declarer counted a diamond
loser, plus two or three heart
losers. In fact, the heart suit
is a classic example of what
is called a “frozen suit.” If
declarer leads hearts, she
will usually lose all three
tricks, whereas if a defenderdummy’s last club in hand.
This eliminated clubs as a
safe exit for her opponents.
Now, she laid down♦AK
and exited with her last
diamond. Whichever
opponent took this trick was
endplayed. Because of the
careful stripping of the suits,
if a club or diamond is led,
this provides a ruff in
dummy and a discard of a
heart from hand. On the
lead of a heart, one trick was
assured and the contract
was made.BRIDGE AUL MENDELSONP
broaches the suit it ensures
that, by playing low from
the second hand to play tothe trick, declarer must
score one heart winner.
So, declarer busied herself
with how to force her
opponents to play hearts —
something neither of them
should do willingly. She won
the lead in hand with K♣,
drew two rounds of trumps,
cashed A♣ nd ruffedaDealer: South N/S Game
North East South West
— — 1S NB
3S NB 4SQ 7
6 4 3
A 8 5
ESNWA 10
J 6 5
A
K 4
98
6
J
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Q
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10 8
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NOVEMBER 9 2019 Section:Weekend Time: 11/20197/ - 19:06 User:mark.alderson Page Name:WKD13, Part,Page,Edition:WKD, 13, 1