NOVEMBER 2019 / SOUTHERNLIVING.COM
102
- Cook bacon in a 12-inch skillet over
medium-high, turning often, until nicely
browned and crisp (adjusting heat as
needed to prevent burning), about 8
minutes. Transfer bacon to a small bowl
using a slotted spoon, and set aside.
Reserve drippings in skillet.
- Add 2 tablespoons of the oil to drippings
in skillet. Add onion, bell pepper, celery,
garlic, and white parts of scallions. Cook
over medium-high, tossing often, until
vegetables are fragrant and tender, 2
to 3 minutes.
- Add crabmeat to skillet, and cook,
tossing occasionally, until crabmeat
is lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
Add cooked rice, salt, black pepper,
and remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Cook,
tossing often, until rice is hot and
all ingredients are combined evenly,
about 4 minutes.
- Add parsley, green parts of scallions,
and reserved bacon to skillet, and toss
well to combine. Transfer crab fried rice to
a serving platter, and serve hot or warm.
ARKANSAS
ARKANSAS’ BLACK
BEAUTY
Fried apples add a sweet presence to
the Thanksgiving table, where cranberry
sauce sometimes carries the fruit flag
all alone. The state’s namesake apple, the
Arkansas Black, dates back to 1870, when
a Benton County farmer encountered an
impressive seedling in his orchard. A
descendant of the Winesap, it earned
national acclaim through the 1920s for
its beautiful color, tart flavor, round shape,
and extraordinary keeping qualities.
With refrigeration making root cellars
obsolete, the Arkansas Black’s national
star dimmed, but it has remained a
treasure in its home state. Elizabeth and
John Aselage of A & A Orchard in Green
Forest grow 50 different types of apples,
taking them to grateful customers at
farmers’ markets in Fayetteville, Eureka
Springs, and Bentonville.
Even after 40 years in the apple-
growing business, they are partial
to the Arkansas Black. “It’s the last
apple we pick each October, and it’s
gorgeous—that deep, dark red color
close to black,” says John. “It’s tart and
dense, becoming sweeter and a bit
softer over time.”
Modern fried apple recipes tend to
call for “firm and tart” types, specifically
Granny Smiths. But old-timers fried
up what they had on hand—from their
own trees, a neighbor’s orchard, or
the store. If Arkansas Black apples
are available in your area, this recipe
is a great way to enjoy them. Or you
can use a firm red apple, such as Red
Delicious or Honeycrisp.
Since the process of frying them and
the addition of brown sugar enhances
any apple’s flavor, look for smaller ones,
which are prettier when sliced. Those
cranberries needn’t claim all the visual
glory on the holiday table.
Fried Arkansas Black Apples
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 15 MIN.
SERVES 6|
1/3 cup packed light brown
sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon, cloves,
or allspice
1/4 cup unsalted butter
5 cups unpeeled red apple slices
(from 3 [1 3/4 lb. total] apples)
3 Tbsp. apple cider
- Stir together brown sugar, salt, and
cinnamon in a small bowl, and set aside.
- Melt butter in a large cast-iron or
nonstick skillet over medium. Add half of
the apple slices in a single layer. (Don’t
overcrowd the pan.) Cook, turning once,
until slightly softened but still quite firm,
2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate
using a slotted spoon. Repeat process
with remaining apples.
- Return cooked apple slices to hot
skillet, and add cider and reserved brown
sugar mixture. Cook over medium, gently
turning occasionally, until apples are
glazed, browned, and tender, 3 to 4
minutes. Transfer fried apples to a
serving bowl or plate. Serve warm.
TEXAS
SOME LIKE IT
(EXTRA) HOT
Of all the side dishes to include on your
November 28 menu, everyone can agree
that dressing is essential. What goes into
it—crawfish, pecans, sausage, oysters,
cream of chicken soup—is another story.
If you’re a Texan, dressing probably
starts with cornbread, and if you’re Hugo
Ortega, the James Beard Award-winning
chef behind Houston’s H Town Restaurant
Group, it includes chorizo. Ortega says
the spicy pork sausage, which he makes
at his restaurants, is a must.
In addition to the widely known
dark red chorizo, he makes two other
varieties: green (which gets its signature
color from leafy greens; serrano chile
peppers; and bouquets of cilantro,
epazote, and parsley) and Chorizo
Istmeño (a specialty of his home region
of Oaxaca in Mexico, which uses
chintextle, a seasoning paste made
of chiles, spices, and dried shrimp).
Like many families, Ortega and his
wife, Tracy (who co-owns H Town),
celebrate Thanksgiving twice. First, they
join her relatives for a traditional feast
with cornbread dressing (studded with
bacon or chorizo), giblet gravy, pickled
peaches, and beets. Then, they head to his
mother’s home where his seven siblings
enjoy tamales, posole, turkey in adobo,
and a spread of desserts made by his
brother Ruben, H Town’s pastry chef.
Our hearty dressing takes its cues
from Ortega and the state of Texas. We
added plenty of fresh Mexican chorizo
and chopped jalapeño for extra heat, plus
green bell pepper and cilantro.
Spicy Cornbread Dressing
with Chorizo
ACTIVE 15 MIN. - TOTAL 40 MIN.
SERVES 8|
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided, plus
more for greasing pan
1 cup chopped yellow onion (from
1 small onion)
