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◀of Italyincreasedtheir prices.
(California, with itsready-made,
well-heeleddomestic market,
neededno such encouragement.
After all, SiliconValleyisbut a
brief limo ride from NapaValley.)
Butatleast inBurgundy
thereisanacceptedhierarchy
of appellations and long-held
reputations.Howdoes amuch
newer producer inaregion
without much of an international
reputation price their wine?
Notsolongago,itseemedthat
newcomers’ priceswererelatively
modest initially, untilreputations
and/or high scores were won. But
nowI’m seeing moreand morewine
producers divinginatthe deep
end, askingreallyquiteambitious
prices from the start.Theymay
be emboldenedbythe factthat,
even if less wine isbeing drunk
in many countries –especially
Britain, whereno- and low-alcohol
drinks areasmuchinfashion
as gin, craftbeerand cocktails –
drinkersaretending to trade up.
Those whotreat themselvestoone
reallyspecialbottle atweekends,
punctuatingvirtuoustrips tothe
gym, arestarting to encroach on
the little-and-often brigade.
On UK shelvesand retail wine
lists,Iview £10 to £25abottle as
the sweetspotthat is likelytobeof
most interesttomyreaders (and
Iwill try to concentrate on this
price bracket in my fourweeks
of specificrecommendations
leading up to Christmas). But
it isbecoming increasingly
difficulttofind winesofreal
interestunder £25abottle.TheLanguedocshouldbe a
source of great-valueFrench
winebecauselandisrelatively
inexpensive andonlyproducers
such as Grange desPères and
Mas de DaumasGassac have
establishedinternational
reputations.But whenItasted
arange of winesfromrelative
newcomers this summer,prices
were alloverthe place–upto€ 40
abottleex-cellar,without much
apparent logic or justification.
Ihad the great pleasureof
tastingthrough the current range
of winesfromanambitious
15-year-old wineestate,La Pèira,
establishedonrocky hillsides
in theLanguedoc’sTerrasses
du Larzac appellation. The quite
delicious topred, also called
La Pèira,retailsforabout £50 a
bottle, whichIpresume is quite
adifficult sell,eventhough it is
every bit as good as manyred
Bordeaux at the same price.
PerhapsownerRobDougan
should have copiedWill Berliner,
an Americanwho settledin
WesternAustralia’s Margaret River
region onlyafewyears ago,started
to growandmakehis ownwine,
and decidedtobegin at the top.
Qantas Wine is currentlyoffering
his 2016Cloudburst Cabernet at
A$350 (almost £200)abottle.
His neighbours maybeenvious,
but theyare also delightedbythe
permission it givesthem to raise
their prices. As virtuallyeveryone
else seems tobe doing.Morecolumnsatft.com/
jancis-robinsonBristol canfeel likeits ownnation state,whereliberalism and cider are
the pillarsofsociety.Since moving hereabout fiveyears ago,Ihavefallen
in lovewith the city’s diverse cultural community and its unique identity.
Finding somewheretoeat is not difficult but choosing can bevery tricky.
Thefood scene is pretty amazing.
—AtWilks(aboveleft), Jamesand ChristineWilkscook in an
unapologetically classicalFrenchway. In theage of Instagrammablefood,
going somewheresounbelievably noton-trend isarelief.Perfect
ingredients,perfect cooking and perfect service–how wonderfullyuncool.
This is mine andmypartner’s favourite place.
—Dela,onMivartStreet in Easton, is an amazing spotforbrunch or lunch,
withfantastically freshproduce.The open kitchen turns out delicious
sharing boards offood inalarge convertedfactory.
—Down somevery seedy-looking steps near the bus station isMayflower,
an authentic Chineserestaurant full ofexpats.Irecommend the deep-
fried pig’sintestineswith pickledvegetablesand hoisin sauce and the
salt fish with aubergine hotpot.
—MyfavouriteplacetogoshoppingisPopti &Beastbutchers and
bakeryinStWerburghs. It sells locally sourced meat–the beef and pork
aresome of the best I’vehad. It also makes amazing toasties.
—South of the river,onNorth Street,OoweeDiner(above right) smashes
out some outrageously filthyburgers. Open until late.WANTED
CLARET, TOPBURGUNDIES, VINTAGEPORTS ANDOTHER FINE WINESWE WILLPAYAUCTION HAMMERPRICES
IMMEDIATE PAYMENT
PLEASE CONTACTPAULBOWKERor PATRICKWILKINSON
ESTABLISHED 1992WILKINSONVINTNERS LIMITED
T: 020 7616 040438 Chagford St,LondonNW1 6EBhttp://www.wilki nsonvintners.com E: [email protected]Jan Ostle is head chefand co-owner with MaryWilsonof Wilsons,BristolMY ADDRESSES
—BRISTOL
JANOSTLE,CHEF/RESTAURATEUR