Vogue India July 2016

(Steven Felgate) #1
CARTIER
THE PANTHER
Cartier’s love afair with the
panther dates back to over a
entury ago, when the Parisian
s created an Art Deco watch
mal print: onyx spots on a ‘fur’ of
ds back in 1914. When Jeanne
oussaint took over as the brand’s muse
and creative director in 1933, working
closely with Monsieur Cartier, she
conjured up some of the finest forms of
the jungle cat. Luring clients from around
the world, often from royal families,
Toussaint had a knack for designing
something fierce yet fabulous. One of
her patrons was the Duchess of Windsor,
whose enviable loot boasted an enamelled
clip with a 90-carat emerald cabochon
and the first three-dimensional version of
the animal linked to a 152.35-carat Kashmir
sapphire cabochon in 1949. Princess Nina
Agha Khan, another collector, had a feline
fetish that included a 1958 brooch with
sapphire cabochon spots. Generations
later, the panther continues to be a
prominent feature, gracing several Cartier
ising campaigns, from illustrations
arbier in 1914 to replacing
by cubs in a 2014
.

TIFFANY& CO. THE HEART
An American institution since 1837, Tifany & Co. invented
a sterling silver heart keychain with an inscribed message:
‘Please Return to Tifany & Co. New York’.
he 1969 idea was simple—lost keys could be dropped of in
the Fifth Avenue flagship and through a unique registration
number the owner could be found. Dubbed as the ‘Return
to Tifany’ concept, the idea was so successful that they
expanded into necklaces, pendants, bangles and bracelets in
assortment of gold finishes. In 1997 the silver charm bracelet
became an international bestseller, further popularised by
Reese Witherspoon’sLegally Blondecharacter in 2001.

view


Watercolour by
George Barbier
of a woman
and panther
commissioned
by Louis
Cartier in 1914;
‘Panthère
Mystérieuse’
diamonds, onyx,
agate, obsidian
and emeralds
set in 18K white
gold pendant
watch, launched
in 2016


‘Panther’ sapphire
cabochons,
marquise-cut
emeralds and onyx
set in platinum clip
brooch, made for
Nina Agha Khan
in 1958; Panther
watercolour by
George Barbier, 1914

‘Panther Skin Motif ’
watch with rose-cut
diamonds and onyx set
in platinum and pink
gold, and a black moire
strap, circa 1914

VITAL SIGNS


From totems to talismans, these lucky leitmotifs play a recurring role on the
sketchpads of iconic jewel houses. ByRISHNA SHAH

142 VOGUE INDIA JULY 2016 http://www.vogue.in


STYLE

Dutch model
Imaan Hammam
is the face of the
autumn/winter
2016 campaign

‘Return to
Tif any’
Rubedo metal
heart tag on
sterling silver
bracelet

‘Return to Tif any’
brilliant-cut
diamonds set
in 18K white
gold mini heart
earrings

‘Return to
Tif any’
brilliant-cut
diamonds set
in 18K white
gold heart tag
pendant

‘Panther’ gold and
black enamel and
cabochon emerald set
in clip brooch

> GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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