Shows on
the Road
This summer, a host of
European museums are
casting their spotlights
on fashion. Here are the
three must-sees.
FASHION
CALAIS
“Olivier Theyskens: In Praesentia” (Opens June 15)
Coinciding with its tenth anniversary, the Museum of Lace and Fashion
in northern France presents this intriguing study of Theyskens’s
20-plus-year career, including his time at Rochas and Nina Ricci.
Together with curator Lydia Kamitsis, Theyskens has developed a show
that eschews the confines of chronology, instead fostering a dialogue
between the vintage fabrics in the museum’s
archives and Theyskens’s contemporary—but no
less meticulously crafted—confections. “What
struck me,” Theyskens says, “were details or
elements that seemed absolutely connected—
the link between the past and the present.”
EDINBURGH
“Body Beautiful: Diversity on the
Catwalk” (Opens May 23)
As fashion begins to reflect a more
inclusive idea of beauty, the National
Museum of Scotland offers a timely
look at how labels like Jean Paul
Gaultier and Gypsy Sport have
embraced broad spectrums of race,
age, physical ability, gender and
sexuality, and size. Beyond capturing
a cultural shift, the show—which
features everything from Halima
Aden’s hijab on the fall 2017 Max
Mara runway to a Burberry trench
custom-made for the activist Sinéad
Burke—considers both the steady
dismantling of old standards and the
work that still needs to be done.
MADRID
“Balenciaga and Spanish Painting”
(Opens June 18)
This new show at El Museo Nacional Thyssen-
—MARLEY MARIUS
BODY TALK
ABOVE: MODEL SLICK WOODS (IN
GYPSY SPORT SHORTS) PHOTOGRAPHED
BY ANTON CORBIJN, VOGUE, 2 0 1 7.
CENTER FIELD
ABOVE: MODEL
CARMEN KASS IN
OLIVIER THEYSKENS,
PHOTOGRAPHED
BY STEVEN MEISEL,
VOGUE, 2000.
SIDE BY SIDE
LEFT: A PAINTING BY ANTONIO
MARÍA ESQUIVEL IS PAIRED
WITH A BALENCIAGA
COCKTAIL DRESS FROM 1955.
VLIFE
50 JUNE 2019 VOGUE.COM
MADRID: LEFT: ESQUIVEL Y SUÁREZ DE URBINA, ANTONIO M
ARÍA.
FLAM
ENCO DANCER JOSEFA VARGAS
, 1850. OIL ON CANVAS, 35.8′′ X 28′′. HOUSE OF ALBA COLLECTION. LAS DUEÑAS PALACE.
SEVILLE. RIGHT: FUCHSIA LACE TAFFETA COCKTAIL DRESS FINISHED W
ITH IVORY-COLORED EM
BROIDERED, GATHERED STRAPS, 1955 ©
M
USEO CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA.