Vogue India June 2019

(Dana P.) #1

























TRACETHETREND

in


132 VOGUE INDIA JUNE  http://www.vogue.in


COURTESY SOTHEBY’S; GETTY IMAGES; INDIGITAL MEDIA

From the Rococo fashions of Marie Antoinette, to extravagant ’80s couture by Christian Lacroix, to the
recent eclecticism of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci, fashion history is fi lled with maximal moments. To-
day’s maximalism is a mix of prints and patterns, clashing colours and a play with size, texture and
proportion. However, it can be a trickier way of dressing, requiring thought, strategy, and let’s face it,
confi dence. If not one for head-to-toe, accessories offer an exciting way to play with fashion’s boldest
trend. V ertiginous platform shoes, statement earrings, or an over-the-top hat, maximalist accessories
are daring and make the best “look at me” statements—very suitable for our Instagram culture.

Full impact


Rainbow sandals,
Salvatore Ferragamo
Made by Salvatore
Ferragamo for Judy
Garland in 1938, the
layered, vertiginous
platforms in a rainbow
make them quite the
fashion statement.
Ferragamo re-released
this shoe in 2002, when
maximalism was making
a comeback.

Gold jewellery,
Chanel, autumn/
winter 1991-92
When I think of OTT
jewellery I immediately
think of the thick gold
chain necklaces and
oversized hoop earrings
of ’80s and ’90s hip
hop. Karl Lagerfeld’s
autumn/winter 1991-92

collection for Chanel
drew inspiration from
hip hop and featured
layers of gold chains,
rings and belt jewellery
that screamed excess.

Mock-croc elevated
Gillies platform,
Vivienne Westwood
Shoes have always
gotten the maximalist
treatment. Think of
the extreme platforms
of the ’70s, Giuseppe
Zanotti’s heel-less
platforms or Alexander
McQueen’s Armadillo
shoes from spring 2010.
Vivienne Westwood’s
extreme platform Gillies
(over 10 inches!) from
her autumn/winter
1993-94 Anglomania
collection that Naomi

Campbell famously
took a spill in, making
them even more iconic.

Murakami Speedy
bag, Louis Vuitton
2003’s It bag combined
the overt luxury of the
Speedy with the pop
aesthetic of Takeshi
Murakami—defi nitely a
maximal combination.
The success of this
handbag led to a
13-year collaboration
between Murakami and
Louis Vuitton!

Pheasant claw and
pearl neckpiece,
Shaun Leane For
Alexander McQueen
autumn/winter 2001-
02; chainmail glove,
Shaun Leane

Jewellery designer
Shaun Leane has
produced some of
the most maximalist
jewellery pieces—from
a necklace made of
Tahitian pearls and
pheasant claws to a
chainmail glove that
he made for Daphne
Guinness, an arbiter of
maximalist style.

Princetown mules,
Gucci
Alessandro Michele has
been called the “spiritual
leader” for the current
avatar of maximalism.
I love his treatment of
the classic Princetown
mule—my favourite is the
‘Lamb Fur Bow Mules’.
They are luxurious and a
little ironic.

Triple S sneakers,
Balenciaga
Balenciaga’s Triple S
sneaker has been
so directional in
kick-starting today’s
ugly sneaker frenzy—the
aggressively clunky
silhouette, stacked sole
and US$895 pricetag.

Le Grand Chapeau
Bomba, Jacquemus
Simon Porte
Jacquemus’s massive
straw hat shows that
size is defi nitely a factor
when thinking about
maximalist accessories,
and this hat takes up
substantial space—the
reason why it’s such
an Instagrammable
accessory. ■

Co-curator of Minimalism/Maximalism, Melissa Marra-Alvarez, shares her
timeline of the most ground-breaking, statement-making accessories

The Murakami
Speedy bag by
Louis Vuitton

Shaun Leane’s
otherworldy
body jewellery

Balenciaga’s
‘Triple S’ sneaker

The XL ‘Le Grand
Chapeau Bomba’
hat by Jacquemus

Vivienne Westwood
A/ W ’93-94

Rainbow
platform by
Salvatore
Ferragamo

Alessandro
Michele’s
version of the
‘Princetown’ mule

Chanel’s
hip hop
fashion-
inspired
jewellery

Shaun Leane
jewellery for
Alexander
McQueen
A/ W ’91-92
Free download pdf