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On July 4, while those in
the U.S. were celebrating
Independence Day with cookouts
and fireworks, we set off for an
arid, mountainous region in cen-
tral Chile about 30 miles (50 km)
southeast of La Serena. This loca-
tion, thanks to its dark skies and
calm atmosphere, is home to the
Cerro Tololo Inter-American
Observatory (CTIO).
Upon our arrival at CTIO,
located some 7,200 feet (2,200 m)
above sea level, we took in the
expansive views from the moun-
taintop before beginning our
tour. Over the course of the next
few hours, we were treated to a
behind-the-scenes look at CTIO’s
two biggest telescopes: the 1.5-
meter SMARTS telescope, part of
the Small and Moderate Aperture
Research Telescope System, and
the famous 4-meter Victor M.
Blanco Telescope.
The Blanco Telescope, which
saw first light in 1976, was an
observational beast in its heyday.
And though newer telescopes
have since greatly surpassed
Blanco in size, thanks to the rela-
tively recent installation of its
sophisticated Dark Energy
Camera (DECam), Blanco is once
again making valuable contribu-
tions to astronomy.
DECam, which sports a
roughly 500-megapixel camera
and a massive 2.2° field of view, is
a vital part of the Dark Energy
Survey, an international collabo-
ration that spent the past six years
mapping hundreds of millions of
galaxies in visible and near-
infrared light. The ultimate goal
of the survey is to unravel the
true nature of dark energy, the
mysterious force that accounts for
nearly 70 percent of the mass-
energy of the universe and is
responsible for the accelerating
expansion of our cosmos.
The end of our tour of Cerro
Tololo also signaled the end of
our adventure through Peru and
Chile. Although the entire jour-
ney took less than two weeks, the
historical and astronomical sites
— and sights — we experienced
throughout will remain burned in
my mind for the rest of my life.
Jake Parks is an associate
editor at Astronomy who has now
experienced two solar eclipses —
and he likely won’t stop chasing
them anytime soon.
- The behemoth Blanco
Telescope was rather
recently retooled with the
Dark Energy Camera, which
saw first light in September - JAKE PARKS
- The Moore family poses in
front of the Victor M. Blanco
4-meter Telescope atop
Cerro Tololo Inter-American
Observatory. JAKE PARKS - The Milky Way spans the
night sky above Peru’s
Sacred Valley of the Incas.
The two bright stars Alpha
and Beta Centauri (middle
right) point the way to the
Southern Cross, which is
setting behind the ridge at
the right edge of the frame.
STEPHEN MOORE - The SMARTS
1.5-meter telescope is the
largest of a suite of SMARTS
telescopes perched atop
Cerro Tololo. JAKE PARKS
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