The Globe and Mail - 19.10.2019

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| PURSUITS

R

ioja is Spain’s best-known wine region

and a steady source of good to out-

standing quality wines, but I’m not

sure Canadian wine lovers are taking full

advantage. So inclined are we to look to the

French or Italian aisles of the liquor store

or turn our heads toward flashy newcome-

rs from California or Australia. The Span-

ish category has languished as a result.

The real attraction for Rioja’s notewor-

thy reserva and gran reserva reds is that

you’re buying wines that have already

been aged in the cellar. They’re hitting the

market ready to drink, typically with silky

and supple textures in addition to the mix

of sweet red fruit, savoury and spicy aro-

mas and flavours.

At a time when precious few wine con-

sumers have the desire or ability to cellar

wine, the capability of releasing wines

when they are ready to drink should be a

huge competitive advantage. Yet, atten-

tion continues to be paid to newly released

reds, which are typically more concentrat-

ed and aggressively oaked, which means

that on release they’re largely inaccessible.

We keep consuming red wines that are not

nearly ready.

Regional winemaking rules declare gran

reserva reds must be aged in oak barrels for

a minimum of two years, and in bottle for a

further three years. As you can see from

some of the wines reviewed this week,

these conditions are merely minimums,

and many wineries age their wines for

much longer prior to release. The resulting

red wines offer more complexity, in the

form of developing mushroom, cured

meat, vanilla and coconut notes, and

smooth tannins that enhance their inter-

est and drinkability.

These strike a winning balance between

ripe fruit and fresh, nuanced complexity

and character.

Another positive for Rioja’s wineries is

the ability to blend different grape varie-

ties, namely tempranillo and a host of na-

tive black grapes, from different vineyard

areas and using differing winemaking

techniques (notably for maturation in oak

barrels), which means there’s a wide varie-

ty coming out of the region.

Depending on their house style and am-

bition, producers may aim to produce con-

sistent products year after year or look to

craft wines that represent the vintage. Big

brands such as Beronia, Campo Viejo and

Marques de Riscal, who have long enjoyed

support in Canadian markets, embrace

blending to maintain consistency from

vintage to vintage. Interest in more esoter-

ic offerings from smaller players as well as

more premium selections is slowly in-

creasing. It’s wonderful to see the likes of

Cune Gran Reserva 2012, La Rioja Alta Vina

Ardanza Reserva 2009 and R. Lopez de

Heredia Vina Bosconia Reserva 2007 on

the shelves to showcase the pleasures Rio-

ja has to offer for current drinking.

Red wines from Rioja are able to com-

pete successfully in terms of style, quality

and price with any traditional or emerging

wine region. Rich and flavourful, concen-

trated and complex, these wines check a

lot of boxes and should command more

interest and respect from consumers.

Some favourites from the current Rioja re-

lease at LCBO Vintages are recommended

here alongside some other bottles worthy

of your attention.

BOTTLESTOTRY

CUNEGRANRESERVA2012(SPAIN)

SCORE:91PRICE:$28.95

An expressive and stylish red wine, this

modern-style Rioja offers impressive char-

acter and a pleasingly smooth texture. Ear-

thy and savoury notes add interest and

complexity to the wine’s rich core of fruit.

This is ready to drink and promises to de-

velop in bottle over the next three to five

years. Available in Ontario, various prices

in Alberta, $39.99 in British Columbia.

LARIOJAALTAVINAARDANZARESERVA

2009(SPAIN)

SCORE:94PRICE:$54.95

An exciting and enjoyable modern style

Rioja that’s reaching its peak. The mix of

sweet fruit and spice aromas make an im-

mediate impression, while the palate

boasts terrific balance, complexity and

length. Drink now to 2025. Available in

Ontario.

R.LOPEZDEHEREDIAVINABOSCONIA

RESERVA2007(SPAIN)

SCORE:93PRICE$48.95

There’s a lot to like about this single vine-

yard Rioja produced by one of the region’s

most coveted properties, Tondonia. Made

in the estate’s traditional style, this com-

plexity and cellar-worthy red is just start-

ing to hit its stride. The ripe core of fruit

gains interest from attractive savoury and

oaky notes. Drink now to 2027. Available in

Ontario.

URBINAESPECIALRESERVA1998(SPAIN)

SCORE:90PRICE:$39.95

Any winery that likes to release its wines

decades after they were made is worthy of

our attention. But this complex red isn’t

just notable because of its advanced age.

It’s still showing attractive fruit along with

the mix of tobacco, earthy and savoury

notes that develop as red wines mature.

Available in Ontario.

VILLACRECESPRUNO2016(SPAIN)

SCORE:91PRICE:$22.95

This ripe, layered and complex red comes

from a site neighbouring Vega Sicilia, the

pioneering Ribera del Duero estate, rough-

ly two hours north of Madrid. A blend of

tempranillo with 10 per cent cabernet sau-

vignon, this is drinking nicely now and

promises to develop through 2027. Avail-

able in Ontario.

CEDARCREEKESTATEWINERYPLATINUM

BLOCK5CHARDONNAY2017(CANADA)

SCORE:92PRICE:$34.99

The new vintage of CedarCreek’s top-of-

the-line chardonnay shows a riper profile

than recent releases. Winemaker Taylor

Whelan has built pleasing complexity in

this age-worthy white by blending across

traditional and larger format French oak

barrels. Drink now to 2024. Available from

the winery through cedarcreek.bc.ca

CHÂTEAUDESCHARMESCABERNET

SAUVIGNONST.DAVID’SBENCHVINEYARD

2016(CANADA)

SCORE:90PRICE:$34.95

Winemaker Amélie Boury is responsible

for an extensive portfolio of quality estate

wines from Château des Charmes in Niag-

ara-on-the-Lake. This is a classic expres-

sion of cabernet sauvignon, with solid

structure, bright acidity and youthful tan-

nins. The mix of dark fruit, savoury notes

and oak spice is nicely integrated. Drink

now to 2026. Available from the winery

through chateaudescharmes.com

DEMORGENZONDMZSAUVIGNONBLANC

2018(SOUTHAFRICA)

SCORE:88PRICE:$17.95

This bright and zesty example of sauvig-

non blanc offers an intense mix of citrus

and herbal notes as part of its mouthwater-

ing character. It’s a terrifically bright and

refreshing white that’s ready to drink.

Available in Ontario.

MORANDINWINESSANGREALESTATE

VINEYARDPINOTNOIR2017(CANADA)

SCORE:90PRICE:$35

Prince Edward County’s Morandin opened

with an impressive portfolio of wines

across the range, with the real excitement

coming from its own Sangreal Estate Vine-

yard. This is a complex and flavourful

pinot noir that conveys that lighter and

brighter County red wine character. Avail-

able from the winery through morandin-

wines.ca

ROAD13VINEYARDS2018CHIPOFFTHE

OLDBLOCKCHENINBLANC(CANADA)

SCORE:89PRICE:$17.39

Made in a ripe and fruity style, this is a

fresh and fun white that offers a mix of tree

fruit flavours with floral and spice accents.

A hint of sweetness helps to enhance its

crowd-pleasing character. Available from

the winery through road13vineyards.com

RODNEYSTRONGCHARLOTTE’SHOME

SAUVIGNONBLANC2017(UNITEDSTATES)

SCORE:88PRICE:$19.95

This fruity and fragrant sauvignon blanc

offers a crowd-pleasing mix of tropical and

citrus fruit, with a slight hint of vanilla

from a portion that was fermented and

aged in French oak barrels. Available in

Ontario at the above price, various prices

in British Columbia and $22.99 in Alberta.

SpecialtoTheGlobeandMail

Ageappropriate

WinedrinkersshouldbepayingmoreattentiontoSpain’sRiojaregion

iffornootherreasonthanthebottlesarehittingshelvesreadytodrink

CHRISTOPHER

WATERS

WATERSONWINE

RegionalwinemakingrulesinRioja,Spain,

requirethatgranreservaredsbeagedin

oakbarrelsforaminimumoftwoyears,

andinbottleforafurtherthree.

LARIOJAALTA