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A
visit to the Grand Canyon
that doesn’t involve elbow-
ing your way through
crowds to get a view,or booking a
year in advance to get a room?
Yes, it’s possible. Just shift your
sights to the North Rim.
Only 10 per cent of the six mil-
lion tourists who visit the Grand
Canyon each year make it to the
North Rim. There are some good
reasons: The season there is
shorter, the temperature’s cooler
and the amenities are fewer and
farther between. But if you’re
okay with roughing it a little, the
trade-off pays off in spades. You’ll
find stunning views you can’t get
on the South Rim, beautiful
campsites and lodges, and the
kind of quiet and solitude you’d
expect only in the backwoods.
Here are four ways you can get
up close and personal with the
Grand Canyon’s reportedly 70
million years of history along its
less-travelled North Rim.
BY MOUNTAIN BIKE
Imagine pedalling through a fra-
grant forest of ponderosa pine,
aspen and juniper, and popping
out right on the edge of the
Grand Canyon for your private
viewing. That’s what’s waiting on
the Rainbow Rim Trail.
The remote, 36-kilometre
Rainbow Rim Trail is the only
singletrack trail on the rim of the
Grand Canyon that’s open to
bikes. The trail cuts through the
1.6-million-acre Kaibab National
Forest, landing on the rim at five
different overlooks: Parissawam-
pitts, Fence, Locust, North Timp
and Timp. Each provides colossal
views of some of the Canyon’s
unique geological features, in-
cluding the Tapeats Amphithe-
atre, the Powell Plateau, Steam-
boat Mountain and the Great
Thumb Mesa. While you gaze out
at the Canyon, you can ponder
the phenomenon known as the
Great Unconformity, which de-
scribes the occurrence of 250-mil-
lion-year-old rock strata and 1.2-
billion-year-old rocks lying side-
by-side. Where the missing slice
went, no one knows. Something
to ponder as you continue on
your journey.
Most cyclists bikepack the trail
as an out-and-back trip, or set up
camp at Locust Point and do two
out-and-back trips from there.
There are no services along the
trail, so plan to bring all the wa-
ter, food and supplies you’ll need
for the trip. And don’t rush. Brew-
ing a coffee while the sun rises
over the Canyon is something
you’ll want to do more than once.
If you prefer a group experi-
ence, book a trip with one of sev-
eral outfitters that run tours of
the Rainbow Rim and nearby
trails. Escape Adventures offers a
four-day mountain biking and
camping excursion that will take
you along the Rainbow Rim Trail
and a section of the Arizona Trail
- not only do they provide bikes
and guides, they’ll also make sure
you’re fed and hydrated the
whole way.
BY FOOT
Slow it down even more and
tackle the North Rim by foot. The
historic Grand Canyon Lodge on
Highway 67 makes a great home
base for a week’s worth of hikes.
Before you start, give yourself
time to acclimate to the eleva-
tion, which, at around 2,400
metres, is about 300 metres high-
er than the South Rim. That extra
height provides dramatic views,
but prepare for them to leave you
breathless in more than one way.
Start by stretching your legs on
the short, paved Bright Angel
Point Trail, which picks up right
behind the lodge and offers views
of the Canyon and the San Fran-
cisco peaks. Try it at sunrise or
sunset for best results. Next, head
out to the Cape Final or Widforss
trails for easy to moderate hikes
that range from six to 14 kilo-
metres return and wind through
forest to stunning lookout points.
The adventurous set can tack-
le the North Kaibab Trail, a 45-
kilometre trail that descends to
the base of the Canyon. The day-
trip version takes you 13 kilo-
metres to Roaring Springs and
back. Along the way, you’ll de-
scend switchbacks, glimpse the
majestic Bright Angel Canyon,
and pass through Redwall Lime-
stone tunnels and over a wooden
suspension bridge.
To really get to the bottom of
your Canyon obsession, try a
multiday rim-to-rim hike. Com-
pleting this hike requires a high
level of physical fitness and ad-
vance accommodation booking.
Most people camp or stay at the
almost hundred-year-old Phan-
tom Ranch, whose wood-and-
boulder cabins are located at the
base of the canyon, right next to
the Colorado River. Want to be
guided? Several outfitters, in-
cluding Wildland Trekking, offer
three- or four-day hiking tours.
BY MULE
Mules have been transporting
humans into the Canyon since
the late 1800s. Join the parade
and sign up for one of Canyon
Trail Rides’ excursions: Choose
from a one-hour ride along the
rim or a three-hour ride descent
into the Canyon to the Supai Tun-
nel.
BY CAR
Start your trip along the North
Rim Scenic Drive at the North
Rim Visitor Centre. First stop, the
General Store for doughnuts and
all your North Rim souvenir
needs. Then head out on Arizona
Scenic Byway 67 for a heart-ex-
panding drive to four Canyon
overlooks.
At Saddle Mountain, a short,
steep hike will bring you to a cou-
ple of quiet lookouts. Point Impe-
rial is the highest overlook in the
park at 2,683 metres; from here
you can see the iconic Mount
Hayden (keep your eyes peeled
for rock climbers scaling the
sandstone peak), the Vermilion
Cliffs and Marble Canyon. Cape
Royal provides an almost pano-
ramic view of the Canyon and the
Colorado River. If you’re feeling
adventurous, drive out to Point
Sublime for another rare per-
spective on the Canyon – but
note that you’ll need a high-
clearance vehicle with four-
wheel-drive to get there.
If you’re doing the North Rim
by car, best to fly into Flagstaff,
Ariz., and rent a car at the airport.
The drive to the North Rim Vis-
itor Centre is just short of four
hours non-stop, but you may
want to stop at Marble Canyon
for some slot canyon explora-
tions on the way. Or consider a
drive into Utah to explore Zion
National Park and the Kolob Ca-
nyon.
Special to The Globe and Mail
The writer was a guest ofEscape
Adventures. It did not review or
approve the story.
TheNorthRimoftheGrandCanyon
offersunparalleledviewsand
hastheRainbowRimTrailfor
mountain-bikeenthusiasts.
PHOTOSBYCHRISTINAPALASSIO/
THEGLOBEANDMAIL
Thecanyon
lesstravelled
TheGrandCanyonattractsmillionsofvisitorseachyear,
ChristinaPalassiowrites.ButitsNorthRimoffersa
chanceforquietandsolitudeawayfromthebigcrowds