7

Malay fried

chicken with

curry leaves

AYAM GORENG DENGAN DAUN KARI

Malay fried chicken with curry leaves

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS MARINATING)

“Used extensively in South Indian and Sri Lankan cooking,

fresh curry leaves (Murraya koenigii) are now common in many

Asian markets, even supermarkets” says Tan. “They are used

in several Malaysian dishes including this fried chicken to impart

a distinctive fragrance. For something diferent, substitute Thai

basil or pandan leaves.”

3 garlic cloves

1 tbsp ground turmeric

1.5 kg chicken drumsticks,

halved through the bone

(see note)

1 litre (4 cups) vegetable oil

1 cup (loosely packed) fresh

curry leaves

30 gm tamarind pulp, soaked

in ½ cup hot water

Pinch of caster sugar

1 long green chilli (optional),

seeds removed and thinly

sliced, to serve

Lime wedges, to serve

SPICE PASTE

5 garlic cloves, chopped

2 golden shallots, coarsely

chopped

15 gm (3cm piece) ginger,

coarsely chopped

3 long red chillies, coarsely

chopped

1 Pound garlic and turmeric

with 1 tsp fine salt, or to taste,

to a smooth paste with a mortar

and pestle. Transfer to a

snap-lock bag, add chicken

and seal. Massage chicken

well and refrigerate to marinate

(30 minutes, or overnight).

2 For spice paste, pound

ingredients with a mortar and

pestle or blend in a food

processor to a fine paste.

3 Heat oil in a large frying pan

or wok over medium-high heat

to 180°C. Fry chicken in batches,

turning occasionally, until golden

and crisp (7-8 minutes; be

careful, hot oil may spit). Drain

on paper towels. Strain oil into

a heatproof bowl and reserve.

4 Wipe wok clean and return

to medium-high heat. Add

250ml reserved oil and heat

to 170°C. Fry curry leaves until

crisp (a matter of seconds; curry

leaves will spit, so use a lid

to prevent oil splashing) and

drain on paper towels.

5 In the same oil, add

spice paste and fry, stirring

frequently, until soft and

aromatic (4-5 minutes). Mash

tamarind with a fork (discard

seeds) and add to pan with

sugar. Bring to the boil and

simmer over low heat until

syrupy (2-3 minutes). Add

chicken and stir to heat through

(1-2 minutes). Check seasoning,

then transfer to a bowl. Top with

crisp curry leaves and chilli and

serve with lime wedges.

Note Use a sharp heavy

knife or cleaver to halve the

drumsticks, or ask the butcher

to cut them for you.

Drink suggestion Hoppy IPA. ●

IKAN MASAK SAMBAL CUKA

Pan-fried ish with vinegar sambal

SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 20 MINS (PLUS SOAKING)

“This recipe is adapted from A Kristang Family Cookbook by

Melba Nunis,” says Tan. “The secret is to cook the spice paste

until it takes on a caramel-like fragrance. This dish, with its

tangy sambal, is incredible with the cucumber salad (see recipe

p114). Mackerel is traditionally used, but any fish is delicious, and

I use rice vinegar, which is milder than most vinegars.”

500 gm snapper fillets, skin

on, pin-boned, cut into

5cm chunks

1 tsp ground turmeric

½ tsp chilli powder

175 ml vegetable oil

80 ml (⅓ cup) rice vinegar

2-3 tbsp caster sugar, or to taste

½ tsp dark soy sauce

Thinly sliced spring onion,

to serve

SPICE PASTE

30 gm (about 10) dried long red

chillies, coarsely cut with

scissors and softened in

boiling water for 10 minutes

10 golden shallots, coarsely

chopped

7 candlenuts (see note)

1 For spice paste, drain chillies

then blend with shallots and

candlenuts in a food processor

to a fine paste, adding a little

water to loosen if required.

2 Combine fish with turmeric,

chilli powder and 1 tsp salt in a

large bowl, turn to coat and set

aside to marinate (15 minutes).

3 Heat a wok or frying pan with

60ml oil over medium-high

heat. When oil begins to

shimmer, add fish, skin-side

down, and cook, turning once,

until skin is crisp and fish is

cooked through (2-3 minutes

each side; be careful, hot oil will

spit). Drain on paper towels.

4 Wipe out wok with paper

towels, return to medium heat

and add remaining oil. When

hot, add spice paste, and stir

until fragrant and oil separates

(8-10 minutes). Add vinegar,

sugar, soy sauce and 250ml

water, bring to the boil, then

reduce heat to medium and

simmer until sambal sauce is

slightly thickened (2-3 minutes).

Add fish and stir gently to

warm through. Season to

taste and serve scattered

with spring onion.

Note Candelnuts are available

from Asian grocers.

Wine suggestion Semi-sweet

riesling.

116 GOURMET TRAVELLER