158 GOURMET TRAVELLER
T
he word “onsen” is
so popular in Japan
it has its own symbol
(and emoji). Japan
is volcanically active, and for
thousands of years the Japanese
have used its hot springs as part
of a ritual to relax and ease stresses,
to cure ailments and as social places
where friends and family can gather.
The oldest recorded onsen,
Dogo Onsen in Japan’s south,
reportedly dates back to 712AD.
As far back as the 7th century,
ryokans offering the comforts
of home and a place to bathe
became fixtures along the
Nakasendo, a route used by
shoguns, pilgrims and samurai
between Tokyo and Kyoto.
While the Western world
obsesses over spa culture, Japan
has always been ahead of the curve- the onsen is the perfect wellness
retreat but priced for the people,
so that anyone can soothe tired
or stressed bodies and souls.
A century ago there were about
2,000 bathhouses in Tokyo and
an estimated 3,000 in wider Japan.
Though the number has since
dwindled, there are indications
that the onsen is experiencing a
revival, with more contemporary
approaches being blended with
retro style and historical nuance.
An onsen is defined as a hot
bath that contains at least one of
19 designated chemical elements- including iron and sulphur – and
that comes from underground at a
temperature higher than 25 degrees.
Kashikiri-buro, or private baths,
are usually found in hotels and
ryokans, and can be rented to guests
so families or couples can enjoy
their bath exclusively. Sento,
meanwhile, are constructed baths
that use heated tap water. They
usually charge a small fee and are
The Japanese onsen has evolved from samurai stopover to
social spa.STEVE WIDEandMICHELLE MACKINTOSH
chart the revival of a nation’s bathhouses.
In hot water
largely utilitarian in their facilities;
customers usually bring their own
towel, soap and shampoo, and
separation of the sexes is often
by way of a large partition. Even so,
the sento has its own charm and it
too is experiencing a revival. New
and refurbished sento are bringing
luxury and variety to the bathhouse
experience in Japan, some adding
jet baths, cold plunge pools and
even outdoor rock pools with the
appearance of an onsen. Many
sento pride themselves on their
murals depicting classic Japanese
scenes such as Mount Fuji or
shrines. Others have evolved
into ultra-modern spa facilities.
Some disused onsen and sento
have been turned into cafés or
galleries. The café conversions of
the Showa-era Maisen in Tokyo,
Saganoyu in Arashiyama and Sarasa
Nishijin in Kyoto have kept many
of the original bathhouse featuresAbove:
Genjinoyu,
Uji, Kyoto.