9

CHEFS SAY

Vito Mollica of Florence’s Michelin-starred Il Palagio

recommends tossing romanesco with the classic

combination of aglio, olio and peperoncino – more

or less in the style of Artusi, but with chilli. Gabriele

Bonci from Rome’s celebrated Pizzarium, meanwhile,

goes outside the square, cooking it “strascinati” –

literally meaning “dragged” across a pan – until

tender, thenstufs warm focaccine with the cooked

romanesco, fresh mozzarella and mackerel.

1 Prepare a batter with

70gm flour, 1 egg, 1 tbsp

extra-virgin olive oil,

60ml white wine, salt

and pepper,mixing until

just combined. Rest batter

in refrigerator for at least

30 minutes or until needed.

Cut400gm (about half

a head) of romanesco

into bite-sized florets, no

thicker than about 3cm.

2 Pourvegetable oilinto

a saucepan (enough so

the florets can float in

it), then place saucepan

over medium heat and

heat oil to170ºC.

3 Dip florets in the cold

batter, let excess batter

run of, then fry in batches,

turningoccasionally,

until golden and crisp

outside and al dente

inside (2-2½ minutes).

Drain on paper towels,

season withsaltand

serve immediately.●

Romanesco broccoli fritters

SERVES 4 AS AN ANTIPASTO OR A SIDE DISH

Short

order

Romanesco

Broccolo romanesco is from the same family as cauliflower

and broccoli but it has a more delicate flavour andbright

green florets that are tightly packed in conical clusters.

It hails from Lazio, where it’s still widely grown, and is

harvested from autumn until early spring. Romanesco is

often made into a pasta sauce with pancetta, or eaten as

a side dish. In itsnative region, a traditional soup combines

the florets with broken spaghetti and skate. Whatever the

preparation, be wary of overcooking it; romanesco’s alluring

shape is best retained by keeping it al dente.

In Italy, romanesco is handled a little differently to many

other brassicas (which often get the twice-cooked treatment).

In Pellegrino Artusi’s 1891Science in the Kitchen and the Art

of Eating Well, for example, he sautés raw “broccoli romani”,

along with its most tender leaves, with olive oil and garlic,

finishing it with white wine, a splash of water, and salt and

pepper. Another option is to batter the florets and fry them.

In Tuscany, deep-fried seasonal vegetables are a popular side

dish or antipasto; anything and everything gets fried. Hence

the saying: fritta è buona anche una ciabatta – even a slipper

is good deep-fried.

THE EXPLAINER

Central Italy

GOURMET TRAVELLER 109

WORDS AND RECIPE EMIKO DAVIES. PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY. STYLING LISA FEATHERBY.MERCHANDISING GERALDINE MUÑOZ. FOOD PREPARATION MAX ADEY. ALL PROPS STYLIST’S OWN