11

(Steven Felgate) #1
Juanita’s
“Come as you are, drink what you
like” is the mantra at this Subiaco
watering hole. Owners Luke Foyle
(late of Lulu La Delizia and The Old
Crow), Anthony Princi and Jeremy
Diaz (both of Bivouac Canteen
& Bar) have brought a new energy
to the south end of Rokeby Road.
“We’re calling it South Rok,” says
Foyle. Formerly an art-supply store,
there’s a bohemian spirit in its styling
(vintage squash rackets and all) and
regular takeovers from winemakers.
The wine list is made up of sta‰
favourites, and there’s house-made
parfait and terrines, too.
What to order: Foyle’s salt and vinegar
chips are the perfect foil for a Blood
& Sand: here a shot of equal parts
rye and Campari.

667 Ann St,
Fortitude Valley,
savilerowbar.com.au

Wines of While
Meet Wines of While: a 50-seat
cave à manger specialising in
minimal-intervention wines chosen
by chef-owner Sam Winfield.
European in both inspiration
and flavour, it o‰ers no wine list,
just a blackboard that changes
a few times daily. The approach
in the kitchen is similarly relaxed


  • think pasta all’arrabiata, or a plate
    of white beans with braised rapini
    to match your glass of Sicilian
    Lamoresca Rosato.
    What to order: A magnum of Cantina
    Giardino’s skin-contact T’ara rà
    Greco, best enjoyed out the front
    catching the late-afternoon Western
    Australian sun.


Alden St,
Fortitude Valley,
(07) 3193 7392,
honto.com.au

TAS


Savile Row
Martin Lange describes his new Fortitude Valley
speakeasy as “artist Richard Hamilton and David
Bowie, feet up on a Chesterfield, drinking Rob Roys
by candlelight and playing Uno at 1am”. Count us in.
It’s slightly more extravagant than Cobbler, with an
Italianate mural, luxe wallpaper and a whopping great
chandelier. Whiskey, sherry and amari feature heavily
on the 900-bottle back bar, or get those feet up
with a classic prepared by dapper uniformed sta‰.
What to order: The Butterscotch Old Fashioned:
butterscotch whisky and grappa stirred with
spiced manuka honey and macadamia bitters.

The Den
Finally, a sophisticated bar in Tassie where you’re
almost guaranteed a spot by the fireplace. The
tables outside are set around two custom-built
gas fires; and inside, a luxe two-storey scorcher
with a brass-plated flue takes centre stage. Bar
manager Etien Celzner is behind cocktails such
as the Tas Berry Sour, made with McHenry gin,
Pimm’s, Fernet Branca and a syrup steeped
with rosemary and lavender foraged (read:
nicked) from front yards in Battery Point.
What to order: There’s whispers of an o‰-menu
stash of Glaetzer-Dixon’s La Judith Shiraz. 

63 Salamanca Pl,
Battery Point,
0499 888 233,
theden.com.au

ÔÔ
Don’t stress about the name and how to say it. Just
order another cocktail. Perhaps a Deadly Viper
Assassination Squad (Archie Rose vodka, umeshu,
watermelon and lemon juice) or The Man From
Okinawa (a Gin Sour with shiso liqueur). All the
cocktails at restaurant Hôntô’s bar, ÔÔ, are named
for Kill Bill characters, and you can almost imagine
the Crazy 88 storming the hidden entrance on Alden
Street. Opened in August by Tyron Simon, Frank Li
and the team behind Longtime, there’s a lot to like


  • more than 120 Japanese whiskies, for starters.
    What to order: We’re hoping the lobster katsu sando
    makes it from the restaurant to the bar (which is
    pronounced “double-o”, by the by.)


458 William St, Perth,
(08) 9328 3332,
winesofwhile.com

341 Rokeby
Rd, Subiaco,
(08) 9388 8882,
juanitasbar.com.au

Wines of While.
Below right:
The Den.

QLD


WA


84 GOURMET TRAVELLER


PHOTOGRAPHY ALASTAIR BETT §THE DEN© & LULU CAVANAGH §WINES OF WHILE©.
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