MargaretRiverisashowcaseofnature.Thetownshipitselfis
just one long street lined with cafés, specialty stores, boutiques
and galleries, which, by night, also reveals itself to cocoon
restaurants, wine bars and pubs pulsating with live music gigs.
But, to get the true essence of the region, you have to propel
yourself into the outdoors. “Here, in this beautiful corner of the
world, you have atmospheric karri forests, world-class surfing
beaches, lighthouses, caves, beautiful swimming beaches,”
says Neil McLeod, who operates McLeod Tours with his wife
Coralie and son Lincoln, out of part of the old family farm he
grew up on. He returned from a long stint in the north to the land
that his family has been on since 1860 to show visitors the glories
of the region. “Nowhere else in Australia, in just a 45-km radius,
will you get art galleries, beautiful furniture stores, olive oil,
soap and glass, a dozen boutique breweries, cheese and
chocolate, local eats and fine dining, and 120 cellar doors.”
Margaret River, it becomes obvious, is blessed by the wine
gods. Just about four per cent of Australia’s wine is produced
here, but its wineries turn out 20 per cent of the premium
bottles that end up on the best tables. We find fantastic wines
and one of the best tables in the regions at Wills Domain
in Yallingup at the northern end of the Margaret River wine
region. Darren Haunold has been making prize-winning wine
in this 60-hectare winery since 2001, but now the enthusiasts
have found a new reason to visit. The restaurant at Wills
Domain is currently one of Western Australia’s best.
We see Chef Seth James in conversation with a wiry Italian
man, elderly but with silky blue shirt opened artfully almost
to the waist. Chef Seth’s tall, Mario’s not, but it is a conversation
among culinary equals. Chef Seth uses Mario’s produce in his
kitchen, beautifully showcasing its freshness with Japanese
influences, alongside other locally-sourced ingredients,
supplemented by veg from his own kitchen garden. Showcasing
local produce, Darren tells us, is an environmental position
and one that no doubt gives the restaurant an edge, but, since
most restaurants in Margaret River work to showcase the local
produce, it is Chef Seth’s genius that sets it apart – the nannygai,
alocal fish, is magical even without the smoke effect it is served
with, kangaroo become a taco filling, golden yabbies find
afitting resting place on circlets of nori, and celeriac – yes,
the humble celeriac – is baked and puréed to be one of the
highlights of a meal that consistently hits the highs. It might
seem counterintuitive to sit with your back to the stupendous
views over the valley, vine-covered hills and paddocks with
even a glimpse of the Indian Ocean on a good day, but do it
anyway. You might never eat food quite like this.
The only reason to be distracted would be if you can see some
wildlife – alive and off your plate. Suzanne Strapp, Darren’s wife,
is president of the local animal rescue and conservation service- FAWNA Inc (Foster and Assistance Wildlife Aid) – and, if you
ask nicely, you might get to see a joey, rescued usually after its
mother has had a fatal encounter with a car, being hand reared
to prepare it for reintroduction into the wild. Or a snake or two...
Coming soon, an animal hospital and a possum finishing
SOUL FOOD...
WITH WINES TO MATCH
PHOTOGRAPHS: PRIMROSE MONTEIRO-D’SOUZA (1,2, FACING PAGE 1,2, 4), TOURISM WESTERN AUSTRALIA (1, FACING PAGE 3, 5)
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