54 – OCTOBER 2019
...AND A FEW THINGS WE’D BE VERY HAPPY TO NEVER SEE AGAIN
PH
OT
OG
RA
PH
S:^
GE
NT
L^ &
HY
ER
S^ (
BE
AN
S);
JIL
LIA
N^
GU
YE
TT
E^ (
AM
AR
O)
.^ FO
R^ D
ETA
ILS
,^ S
EE
SO
UR
CE
BO
OK
.
An affogato has
two intrinsic flaws:
(1) Hot espresso
melts ice cream,
and (2) You can’t
catch a true buzz
off the dessert. The
solution to both?
Do like Pizzeria
Beddia in Philly
and swap the
espresso for amaro.
House-made sweet
cream soft-serve
and a cola-like
Italian digestivo
such as Averna
is pure nostalgia,
whether you’re
thinking of Mister
Softee or Nonna’s
liquor cabinet. — A.D.
For me, this year was about the little
things. Like, one really little thing in
particular: beans. Glorious beans! The
humble legume has gone from staff
meal staple to fastidiously sourced,
lovingly cooked, proudly plated scene-
stealer. I relished dense, boiled peanut–
esque ayocotes ladled over sticky rice
with greens at Larder in Baltimore.
Big, beautiful, brothy butter beans,
creamy and rich under a shower of
crispy breadcrumbs at Brooklyn’s
reimagined Marlow & Sons. And my
favorite of all, a generous bowl of
tender, delicate crowder peas lolling
about in their own aromatic potlikker,
served alongside a toasty wedge of
proper Southern cornbread at Benne on
Eagle in Asheville, NC: the Appalachian
answer to Alice Waters’s infamous
fruit bowl, perfect in its simplicity.
Sometimes a hill of beans isn’t nothing—
it’s everything. —AMIEL STANEK
Have You Ever
Truly Loved
Until You’ve
Loved a Bean?
POUR SOME
AMARO ON ME
Dying fig
leaf trees
“Add caviar
for $150”
Parsnip ice
cream. Why?
Another text
from the Resy bot
CBD
(sorry)
Charred carrots
with yogurt
The inside
of a food hall
18
19
NO.
