The Grand Food Bargain

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The Perfect Formula  85

cooking oil sold for human consumption began as “gutter oil”—sewage
oil collected, heated, and treated with chemicals.


Even leaving aside blatant fraud, food is not as innocent as it once was.
With the grand food bargain, we got the cheap, easy, addictive products
we wanted, but not without their consequences. Initially, more food
came from conscripting more energy. But before long, a staid diet of
whole grains, vegetables, fruits, and limited animal protein was sup-
planted by foods engineered to evoke pleasure and stimulate taste.
Today, diets are dominated by refined carbohydrates, processed flour,
loads of saturated fat, plenty of added salt, and minimal amounts of fiber.
Consuming more than what our bodies require is tied to at least thirty
different medical conditions and diseases.
Yet food companies are not slowing down. Instead, they are consoli-
dating, gaining power and leverage over government. Even in the early
days of regulation, government agencies hardly amassed a stellar track
record of protecting public health. If the past is any clue, governments
will continue to be reactive—responding to scandals that grab headlines.
Only consistent political pressure will force politicians to initiate real
reform.
For consumers, the laws of nature still apply—the more calories we
eat, the more weight we gain. Our economic model doesn’t help: on a
per-calorie basis, it’s cheaper to fill up on unhealthy foods than nutritious
fare. And while physical activity has never been more important for
overall health, it’s hard to exercise your way to weight loss when food is
so caloric. Few of us will work out for an hour just to burn off a slice of
pizza.
Moreover, our metabolisms are not cooperating. The average
American dieter attempts to lose weight four times a year. Most who
try will eventually put the weight back on, plus some. A study of contes-
tants on television’s The Biggest Loser revealed some disappointing news:
to maintain their weight loss, they needed to eat significantly fewer calo-
ries than most people their size. Their metabolisms had slowed down,
allowing their bodies to put the weight back on more easily.
Perhaps the best dietary advice was given by W. O. Atwater, a bona
fide pioneer in nutrition science. His counsel: avoid a diet that is “one-

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