Vanity Fair UK - 10.2019

timing, Ulysse Nardin, signed fellow
seaborne sensation Fred Buyle, a
record free-diver turned underwater
photographer now committed to
documenting the frail ecosystem of
the oceans, one (gargantuan) breath
at a time. Meanwhile, Blancpain’s
Ocean Commitment conservation
programme includes among its roll-call
of sub-aquatic heroes Gianluca Genoni,
a record-setter in static apnea and
the pioneer of a new, motorised “no
limits” free-dive discipline—the perfect
gentleman to represent the brand’s
historic Fifty Fathoms dive watch.
So why free-diving? It’s tempting
to think that, from a watchmaker’s
point of view, it represents a readily
transportable, non-polluting asset that
relies on a minimum of kit (beyond
vigilant back-up). But it also talks to
a deeper need. In an industry where
“no limits” generally refers to the
boundless imagination of a creative
team, and “risk” is merely its potential
to misjudge the mood for “retro”
or nominally “futuristic” designs,
free-diving imports a tangible whiff of
danger to a business that, above all
else, requires an emotional engagement
with its audience.
Whatever the motive (and in
landlocked Switzerland, at least, it
might well simply be the wish to avail
oneself of the high seas on any pretext
whatsoever), our current appetite to
get below the waterline, coupled with a
need to know the time while we’re down
there, is a powerful incentive for an
industry more than capable of equipping
us with the timepieces that can do so.

T

o this end, Officine
Panerai recently offered
purchasers of an especially
limited-edition Submersible Chrono
Guillaume Néry Edition the chance to
rendezvous with its namesake French
free-diving champion in the South
Pacific. According to a spokesperson,
all 15 watches—and their accompanying
opportunity to join Néry below the
waves—were snapped up immediately.
No wonder so many watch brands
choose to align themselves with these
watery wunderkinds. As a sport, as well
as a practical means of highlighting
all that unbreachable technology,
free-diving continues to stand, or
rather swim, apart.

TAKING THE PLUNGE

DEPTH

(m)

-130

-110

-90

-150

-140

-120

-100

-160

-170

The incredible depths reached by free-divers—and their wristwatches

FRED

BUYLE

103 m

MORGAN

BOURC’HIS

105 m

WILLIAM

TRUBRIDGE

124 m

ANNA VON

BOETTICHER

125 m

GIANLUCA

GENONI

160 m

TANYA

STREETER

162 m

Constant Weight (CWT) Probably the most common

depth version of free-diving. The wetsuit-clad diver descends

using either bifins or a monofin and a small amount of weight.

They are not allowed to pull on any guide ropes or change the

weight used.

Variable Weight (VWT) Popularised in Luc Besson’s 1988

film The Big Blue, this is one of the two more “extreme” versions

of the sport. The diver descends with the help of a heavy weight

(usually in the form of a sled) to a pre-agreed depth, before

ascending to the surface using their own strength—aided by fins

if they choose.

No Limit (NLT) This is a true expression of human

underwater endurance, with divers descending to a level that’s

deeper than some submarines can operate. The diver descends

with a heavy weight then ascends using any method of choice—

traditionally divers tended to opt for a lift bag, though in more

recent times they’ve chosen fast counter-balance pulley systems.

Free-diving The disiplines

BLANCPAIN

X FATHOMS

ORIS AQUIS

DATE DIAMONDS

TUDOR SUUNTO

PELAGOS

DEEP DIVE

ULYSSE NARDIN

TAG HEUER

AQUAGRAPH

AUTUMN 2019